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derek guy

@dieworkwear • 1,495,065 subscribers

Menswear writer. Editor at @putthison. Bylines at The New York Times, The Financial Times, Politico, Esquire, and Mr. Porter

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Charmed by this ornamental plaster work from Foster Reeve and his team in Brooklyn, NY. All handmade, of course.

Charmed by this ornamental plaster work from Foster Reeve and his team in Brooklyn, NY. All handmade, of course.

85,558 просмотров

love this black tie outfit on Wisdom Kaye. people who think black tie has to be boring have no appreciation for cut and silhouette. the strategic use of darts, padding, and ironwork here create a dramatic look. floppy bow tie, studs, brooch, and waist covering are also nice touches.

love this black tie outfit on Wisdom Kaye. people who think black tie has to be boring have no appreciation for cut and silhouette. the strategic use of darts, padding, and ironwork here create a dramatic look. floppy bow tie, studs, brooch, and waist covering are also nice touches.

163,392 просмотров

me driving to get lettuce bc americans think walkable neighborhoods are "gay"

me driving to get lettuce bc americans think walkable neighborhoods are "gay"

6,262,626 просмотров

Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney dresses pretty well for a politician. Videos via Olivia Stefanovich

Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney dresses pretty well for a politician. Videos via Olivia Stefanovich

1,202,345 просмотров

one trouser is slightly higher in the rise, slightly fuller in the leg, and a touch longer in the inseam. which do you feel looks better? IG justin__kwan

one trouser is slightly higher in the rise, slightly fuller in the leg, and a touch longer in the inseam. which do you feel looks better? IG justin__kwan

3,917,427 просмотров

You may also be using too much water. Zachary Pozniak of Jeeves, a leading NYC dry clean company, explains here. IG jeeves_ny

You may also be using too much water. Zachary Pozniak of Jeeves, a leading NYC dry clean company, explains here. IG jeeves_ny

310,875 просмотров

in 2014, someone leaked a 65% off Ralph Lauren employee discount code on Twitter, and then Dallas Penn shared it on Instagram. Code went viral and ppl bought $5k chandeliers, $2.5k bags, and $1k shoes. Just Blaze basically furnished a home with the code. Twas a night to remember.

in 2014, someone leaked a 65% off Ralph Lauren employee discount code on Twitter, and then Dallas Penn shared it on Instagram. Code went viral and ppl bought $5k chandeliers, $2.5k bags, and $1k shoes. Just Blaze basically furnished a home with the code. Twas a night to remember.

8,385,564 просмотров

vanity fair photographer christopher anderson posts this story on his instagram, suggesting he intentionally posed stephen miller underneath a painting of native americans

vanity fair photographer christopher anderson posts this story on his instagram, suggesting he intentionally posed stephen miller underneath a painting of native americans

1,142,978 просмотров

don't understand why this chanel x charvet shirt is getting so much attention. it's a ready-to-wear shirt from a bespoke tailoring house that retails for $4,350. that's ~5x the price of Charvet's bespoke but with none of the benefits. worse still, it has a chain at the bottom no one will see but will make it a pain in the ass to launder.

don't understand why this chanel x charvet shirt is getting so much attention. it's a ready-to-wear shirt from a bespoke tailoring house that retails for $4,350. that's ~5x the price of Charvet's bespoke but with none of the benefits. worse still, it has a chain at the bottom no one will see but will make it a pain in the ass to launder.

806,450 просмотров

wish more men brought this energy to work instead of being like "am i going to stand out if i wear a sweater?" IG sommyyah

wish more men brought this energy to work instead of being like "am i going to stand out if i wear a sweater?" IG sommyyah

3,678,525 просмотров

we're so disconnected from how clothes are made that moschino made an ad of someone using a large blunt needle to do fake basting

we're so disconnected from how clothes are made that moschino made an ad of someone using a large blunt needle to do fake basting

2,871,073 просмотров

one knot is bigger, more symmetrical. the other knot is smaller, less symmetrical. which looks better to you? IG justin__kwan

one knot is bigger, more symmetrical. the other knot is smaller, less symmetrical. which looks better to you? IG justin__kwan

1,993,342 просмотров

Nice suit by B&Tailor in Seoul, South Korea. You can see how a smooth silhouette makes all the difference. Compared to Vance (trousers too low, too slim) and Patel (jacket too small, pants too tapered). Tailoring is more about creating shape, not just taking things in.

Nice suit by B&Tailor in Seoul, South Korea. You can see how a smooth silhouette makes all the difference. Compared to Vance (trousers too low, too slim) and Patel (jacket too small, pants too tapered). Tailoring is more about creating shape, not just taking things in.

270,497 просмотров

Some looks I've enjoyed so far. I don't know if that's Aurora James's outfit for the night, but I admire the amount of detailing.

Some looks I've enjoyed so far. I don't know if that's Aurora James's outfit for the night, but I admire the amount of detailing.

112,683 просмотров

short vs. long sleeve depends on the shirt's fabric, cut, and most importantly, collar style. here are four outfits involving short sleeved shirts that would not be improved by long sleeves. notice the fabric (casual), cut (cropped, boxy), and collar (derivation of camp collar).

short vs. long sleeve depends on the shirt's fabric, cut, and most importantly, collar style. here are four outfits involving short sleeved shirts that would not be improved by long sleeves. notice the fabric (casual), cut (cropped, boxy), and collar (derivation of camp collar).

95,612 просмотров

Brunella I don't know anything about womenswear, but I know the 1970s brand East West Musical Instruments made black/ brown leather jackets that were a little quirky. You can find them on the second-hand market. Roberto Cavalli has also riffed off them (fourth slide of a SS02 piece)

138,404 просмотров

Aesthetically, this is basically how you have to dress to make things like the Vision Pro and Cybertruck look cool. These things mainly look bad in public bc there's no congruity between the business casual gear most ppl wear and these futuristic designs

Aesthetically, this is basically how you have to dress to make things like the Vision Pro and Cybertruck look cool. These things mainly look bad in public bc there's no congruity between the business casual gear most ppl wear and these futuristic designs

2,871,042 просмотров

i know this is how you act after taking off that tight ass hoodie

i know this is how you act after taking off that tight ass hoodie

361,283 просмотров

when trying on pants, do this in the store. then tell the sales associate "the menswear guy told me to do this." IG mr.funkys0ul

when trying on pants, do this in the store. then tell the sales associate "the menswear guy told me to do this." IG mr.funkys0ul

473,018 просмотров

I'm sad to learn that Antonio Pascariello recently passed away. Pascariello was a great Neapolitan tailor who made softly constructed suits and sport coats with razor-sharp lapels and slightly sweeping quarters. More importantly, he was one of the best teachers in the region, if not the industry. For decades, he took in apprentices, often international students from East Asia, and taught them the craft of bespoke tailoring. In fact, if you see a particularly talented bespoke tailor in East Asia today, there's a good chance they apprenticed under Pascariello. His former students include Noriyuki Ueki (Sartoria Ciccio), Jeon Byeong-ha (Sartoria Jun), and Nario Sasaki (Sartoria Tramonto). I recently had dinner with Jeon and another tailor. When a slightly controversial tailoring topic came up, Jeon gave an answer that I thought contained a very Italian perspective. In this way, Pascariello lives on through the lessons he taught his students. In the last year, we've lost Mariano Rubinacci, Antonio Panico, and now Antonio Pascariello. There are still a lot of talented people in this industry, but increasingly fewer people who have a personal connection to that mid-20th century period when men wore tailoring best.

I'm sad to learn that Antonio Pascariello recently passed away. Pascariello was a great Neapolitan tailor who made softly constructed suits and sport coats with razor-sharp lapels and slightly sweeping quarters. More importantly, he was one of the best teachers in the region, if not the industry. For decades, he took in apprentices, often international students from East Asia, and taught them the craft of bespoke tailoring. In fact, if you see a particularly talented bespoke tailor in East Asia today, there's a good chance they apprenticed under Pascariello. His former students include Noriyuki Ueki (Sartoria Ciccio), Jeon Byeong-ha (Sartoria Jun), and Nario Sasaki (Sartoria Tramonto). I recently had dinner with Jeon and another tailor. When a slightly controversial tailoring topic came up, Jeon gave an answer that I thought contained a very Italian perspective. In this way, Pascariello lives on through the lessons he taught his students. In the last year, we've lost Mariano Rubinacci, Antonio Panico, and now Antonio Pascariello. There are still a lot of talented people in this industry, but increasingly fewer people who have a personal connection to that mid-20th century period when men wore tailoring best.

85,724 просмотров

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this is what some of you look like in short sleeve button-up shirts

this is what some of you look like in short sleeve button-up shirts

2,040,680 просмотров • 15 дней назад

I love brown summer suits. Personally prefer them with ecru or even soft yellow shirts, as I associate white button-ups with business and think they often need a tie. With ecru or pale yellow, there's no mistaking that it's a more casual take on tailoring. Light blue works too.

I love brown summer suits. Personally prefer them with ecru or even soft yellow shirts, as I associate white button-ups with business and think they often need a tie. With ecru or pale yellow, there's no mistaking that it's a more casual take on tailoring. Light blue works too.

421,461 просмотров • 5 дней назад

Love Kazuyuki Ishihara's work. He won "best in show" at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show last year and had a special suit made for it, which you can see in Suzuki's original video. The way he uses textures, layers, and colors is pretty great.

Love Kazuyuki Ishihara's work. He won "best in show" at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show last year and had a special suit made for it, which you can see in Suzuki's original video. The way he uses textures, layers, and colors is pretty great.

196,936 просмотров • 6 дней назад

New issue of Popeye, a Japanese menswear mag, looks great. It's a rare all-English edition and looks at how people from 18 different countries dress. Very aligned with my view of style: diversity and differences are good; dress is a form of social language. Avail at Kinokuniya

New issue of Popeye, a Japanese menswear mag, looks great. It's a rare all-English edition and looks at how people from 18 different countries dress. Very aligned with my view of style: diversity and differences are good; dress is a form of social language. Avail at Kinokuniya

220,227 просмотров • 12 дней назад

the new middlebrow podcast with kate wehwalt is very enjoyable. many of the points raised feel salient to menswear — deskilling in the trades, rise of bad taste because an uneducated customer goes wild with options, poptimism vs cultural criticism, etc IG middlebrowpod

the new middlebrow podcast with kate wehwalt is very enjoyable. many of the points raised feel salient to menswear — deskilling in the trades, rise of bad taste because an uneducated customer goes wild with options, poptimism vs cultural criticism, etc IG middlebrowpod

318,761 просмотров • 18 дней назад

Really like Rihanna's new tattoo. It reminds me of Kimberly Mata-Rubio's tattoo, which shows a drawing that her daughter Lexi made of her.

Really like Rihanna's new tattoo. It reminds me of Kimberly Mata-Rubio's tattoo, which shows a drawing that her daughter Lexi made of her.

488,670 просмотров • 26 дней назад

This is the cut that professional athletes, such as those in the NHL, should wear. This cut can only be achieved by drafting the pattern from scratch, rather than adjusting from a block (unless the company has a block built for pro athletes, which I've yet to see). IG bntailor

This is the cut that professional athletes, such as those in the NHL, should wear. This cut can only be achieved by drafting the pattern from scratch, rather than adjusting from a block (unless the company has a block built for pro athletes, which I've yet to see). IG bntailor

550,964 просмотров • 1 месяц назад

Have long admired Constantin Brâncuși's style. In fact, if you look up photos of early 20th century artists, you'll find they often dressed well — Georges Braque, Zao Wou-Ki, Alberto Giacometti, etc.

Have long admired Constantin Brâncuși's style. In fact, if you look up photos of early 20th century artists, you'll find they often dressed well — Georges Braque, Zao Wou-Ki, Alberto Giacometti, etc.

110,127 просмотров • 7 дней назад

Sure. I can explain why I think this outfit is good. As always, it starts with an understanding about clothing history. 🧵

Sure. I can explain why I think this outfit is good. As always, it starts with an understanding about clothing history. 🧵

1,735,876 просмотров • 3 месяцев назад

finally finished the floors in my home 😮‍💨

finally finished the floors in my home 😮‍💨

4,484,046 просмотров • 7 месяцев назад

On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American. Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers. IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.

On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American. Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers. IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.

6,041,673 просмотров • 10 месяцев назад

This video has made the rounds on nearly every social media platform—and like others in its genre, it's led people to reduce fashion production to overly simplistic narratives. So let’s take a look at why this bag might not be quite the same as the one you’d find at Hermès. 🧵

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This video has made the rounds on nearly every social media platform—and like others in its genre, it's led people to reduce fashion production to overly simplistic narratives. So let’s take a look at why this bag might not be quite the same as the one you’d find at Hermès. 🧵

8,238,199 просмотров • 1 год назад

Not true. Pete Hegseth's clothes are custom-made. A few years ago, my friend and I had a debate about whether you can spot custom tailoring. This friend has more than 30 years of experience working with some of London's best bespoke tailors. He believes that an educated eye can spot the difference between a custom and an off-the-rack suit. I don't think you can, assuming certain conditions (too detailed to get into here). Ultimately, we agreed on one thing: you can spot custom tailoring when the clothes are so ugly that no designer would ever make them. This explains a lot of the clothing you see nowadays. On a television segment aired long ago, Pete Hegseth said he used a company called Book a Tailor. And in the recent email hack, it was revealed that Kash Patel's email address was linked to this online clothing review, indicating he uses Rocky's HK Fashions. Long ago, Gavin McInness also talked about his tailor. They all share one thing: they wear clothes that were made in low-wage East Asian countries. I should note at the outset that there's nothing inherently wrong with East Asian tailoring. In fact, some of the world's best tailoring is done there, including at firms such as WW Chan (Hong Kong) and Atelier BRIO (Beijing). I would stake my reputation on saying that some of the best East Asian tailoring today rivals that of Savile Row. Seoul is also a tremendous hub for quality custom tailors (e.g., Assisi, The Finery Company, B&Tailor, Hamin Kim, among others). However, these people are not using such firms. Instead, they are relying on a new system developed sometime in the late 20th century that has since taken off with the development of digital information technology. In this system, someone with little experience in the clothing industry will set up a custom clothing company. For the sake of discussion, let's call this person Mark and the company "Custom Threads." Mark doesn't know much about tailoring, but he likes suits and wants to make money. So he contacts one of these factories in East Asia and sets up a partnership. Mark meets with clients in the US. Since he's wearing a suit and has a tape measurer around his neck, customers assume he knows what he's doing (some may even refer to him as a "tailor," even if he's not one). He takes detailed measurements of these clients, jots down their fabric choice, and sends the information to his partners in East Asian. The garment is then made by adjusting the block pattern, sewn straight to finish, and delivered to Mark, who presents it to the customer for a fitting. Small adjustments are made here and there — maybe taking up the sleeve or nipping the waist. But since Mark is not actually a technically trained cutter, he may miss things, such as a wrongly placed neckpoint that makes the jacket scissor in or out. If the customer is very far off from the block pattern, it may not fit him at all. But Mark is not in a good position to address these matters — he neither has the skills nor the margins to put this customer in a proper garment. If Mark is not very well educated on tailoring, then his customers are even less so. Thus, the customer is just happy with the crude hallmarks of custom-made goods, such as the monogram he asked for. Or the contrast colored buttonhole that he believes makes him stand out in a good way. The customer doesn't know how to check for more meaningful issues, such as front-back balance, so it's the blind leading the blind. This system is very different from the system of your grandfather's generation. If a man wanted a custom suit, he would have gone to a custom tailoring shop, which may have been owned by someone who wasn't a cutter, but the cutter would have seen you in person and thus been able to address technical issues. At the very least, the person running the "front of house" would have had more experience in the clothing trade (e.g., Tommy Nutter). Last year, The Wall Street Journal did an article about a pastor-turned-tailor. He, too, relies on this system: he measures customers and sends the info to an overseas factory, where the clothes are made in China, Thailand, and Vietnam. Again, there's nothing inherently wrong with Chinese or Thai tailoring. But when the starting price is $300 for a suit ($500 after Trump imposed his tariffs), you can be sure he's not using the best shops. This is why Hegseth's suits look the way they do. He got his clothes from someone with little experience in the clothing trade and has no technical tailoring skills. Thus, both he and the company owner are easily led by stale trends (e.g., short jackets, tight pants, low-rise, etc.). Hegseth has little experience with custom tailoring and a low level of personal taste, so he checks every possible custom option — funky lining, contrast buttonhole, etc. This is why I often tell people that they should try ready-to-wear first. Custom tailoring is not a guarantee of quality tailoring, especially not in this new system where people with no experience or technical skills are just sending measurements to a distant factory. Hegseth also demonstrates the one bit of common ground I found with my friend during our debate: you can tell clothes are custom-made when they are so ugly, no designer would ever make such a thing.

Not true. Pete Hegseth's clothes are custom-made. A few years ago, my friend and I had a debate about whether you can spot custom tailoring. This friend has more than 30 years of experience working with some of London's best bespoke tailors. He believes that an educated eye can spot the difference between a custom and an off-the-rack suit. I don't think you can, assuming certain conditions (too detailed to get into here). Ultimately, we agreed on one thing: you can spot custom tailoring when the clothes are so ugly that no designer would ever make them. This explains a lot of the clothing you see nowadays. On a television segment aired long ago, Pete Hegseth said he used a company called Book a Tailor. And in the recent email hack, it was revealed that Kash Patel's email address was linked to this online clothing review, indicating he uses Rocky's HK Fashions. Long ago, Gavin McInness also talked about his tailor. They all share one thing: they wear clothes that were made in low-wage East Asian countries. I should note at the outset that there's nothing inherently wrong with East Asian tailoring. In fact, some of the world's best tailoring is done there, including at firms such as WW Chan (Hong Kong) and Atelier BRIO (Beijing). I would stake my reputation on saying that some of the best East Asian tailoring today rivals that of Savile Row. Seoul is also a tremendous hub for quality custom tailors (e.g., Assisi, The Finery Company, B&Tailor, Hamin Kim, among others). However, these people are not using such firms. Instead, they are relying on a new system developed sometime in the late 20th century that has since taken off with the development of digital information technology. In this system, someone with little experience in the clothing industry will set up a custom clothing company. For the sake of discussion, let's call this person Mark and the company "Custom Threads." Mark doesn't know much about tailoring, but he likes suits and wants to make money. So he contacts one of these factories in East Asia and sets up a partnership. Mark meets with clients in the US. Since he's wearing a suit and has a tape measurer around his neck, customers assume he knows what he's doing (some may even refer to him as a "tailor," even if he's not one). He takes detailed measurements of these clients, jots down their fabric choice, and sends the information to his partners in East Asian. The garment is then made by adjusting the block pattern, sewn straight to finish, and delivered to Mark, who presents it to the customer for a fitting. Small adjustments are made here and there — maybe taking up the sleeve or nipping the waist. But since Mark is not actually a technically trained cutter, he may miss things, such as a wrongly placed neckpoint that makes the jacket scissor in or out. If the customer is very far off from the block pattern, it may not fit him at all. But Mark is not in a good position to address these matters — he neither has the skills nor the margins to put this customer in a proper garment. If Mark is not very well educated on tailoring, then his customers are even less so. Thus, the customer is just happy with the crude hallmarks of custom-made goods, such as the monogram he asked for. Or the contrast colored buttonhole that he believes makes him stand out in a good way. The customer doesn't know how to check for more meaningful issues, such as front-back balance, so it's the blind leading the blind. This system is very different from the system of your grandfather's generation. If a man wanted a custom suit, he would have gone to a custom tailoring shop, which may have been owned by someone who wasn't a cutter, but the cutter would have seen you in person and thus been able to address technical issues. At the very least, the person running the "front of house" would have had more experience in the clothing trade (e.g., Tommy Nutter). Last year, The Wall Street Journal did an article about a pastor-turned-tailor. He, too, relies on this system: he measures customers and sends the info to an overseas factory, where the clothes are made in China, Thailand, and Vietnam. Again, there's nothing inherently wrong with Chinese or Thai tailoring. But when the starting price is $300 for a suit ($500 after Trump imposed his tariffs), you can be sure he's not using the best shops. This is why Hegseth's suits look the way they do. He got his clothes from someone with little experience in the clothing trade and has no technical tailoring skills. Thus, both he and the company owner are easily led by stale trends (e.g., short jackets, tight pants, low-rise, etc.). Hegseth has little experience with custom tailoring and a low level of personal taste, so he checks every possible custom option — funky lining, contrast buttonhole, etc. This is why I often tell people that they should try ready-to-wear first. Custom tailoring is not a guarantee of quality tailoring, especially not in this new system where people with no experience or technical skills are just sending measurements to a distant factory. Hegseth also demonstrates the one bit of common ground I found with my friend during our debate: you can tell clothes are custom-made when they are so ugly, no designer would ever make such a thing.

817,776 просмотров • 1 месяц назад

this guy has such great style. i don't know how to upload multiple videos, so here's just one. his whole tiktok is great though. tiktok: thespencermcqueen

this guy has such great style. i don't know how to upload multiple videos, so here's just one. his whole tiktok is great though. tiktok: thespencermcqueen

15,476,429 просмотров • 2 лет назад

The police in Reading, Pennsylvania report that this skunk has stolen sixteen skateboards so far by faking he's trapped at the bottom of a pool

The police in Reading, Pennsylvania report that this skunk has stolen sixteen skateboards so far by faking he's trapped at the bottom of a pool

2,477,487 просмотров • 7 месяцев назад

Elon Musk, Feb 2025: "America should mind its own business rather than push for regime change all over the place" Elon Musk, Jan 2026: "Congratulations, President Trump! This is a win for the world and a clear message to evil dictators everywhere."

Elon Musk, Feb 2025: "America should mind its own business rather than push for regime change all over the place" Elon Musk, Jan 2026: "Congratulations, President Trump! This is a win for the world and a clear message to evil dictators everywhere."

1,667,059 просмотров • 5 месяцев назад

here are eight men. the first three, shown in the first slide, have lean and athletic body types. the others are not so lean. of these four slides, which do you think look the best?

here are eight men. the first three, shown in the first slide, have lean and athletic body types. the others are not so lean. of these four slides, which do you think look the best?

750,451 просмотров • 2 месяцев назад

Many jackets can cost $2k and more. Much depends on the material and how it's made. You don't see this bc you are disconnected from the production process and only think about clothes as objects. Marx called this commodity fetishism. IG ninapenlingtonbespoke and sartoria_salino

Many jackets can cost $2k and more. Much depends on the material and how it's made. You don't see this bc you are disconnected from the production process and only think about clothes as objects. Marx called this commodity fetishism. IG ninapenlingtonbespoke and sartoria_salino

565,342 просмотров • 1 месяц назад

This food looks like the raw material that the menswear brand toward(s) uses for their artisanal buttons IG towards.ig

448,553 просмотров • 1 месяц назад

This comment seems to have resonated with and rankled some people. The London shop Subdial has a great YouTube channel, where they recently did an episode on whether Rolex would be in a new Holy Trinity. The episode is great; you should look it up on YouTube. YT subdialwatches

This comment seems to have resonated with and rankled some people. The London shop Subdial has a great YouTube channel, where they recently did an episode on whether Rolex would be in a new Holy Trinity. The episode is great; you should look it up on YouTube. YT subdialwatches

341,550 просмотров • 1 месяц назад