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Chris Sharma spent weeks falling on the same move before Realization became the route that changed sport climbing forever. In 2001 at Céüse, France, Sharma was trying to finish a line that would become the world’s first confirmed 9a+ climb. The hardest part was not simply pulling harder. It...

35,293 görüntüleme • 1 ay önce •via X (Twitter)

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rob.eth profil fotoğrafı
rob.eth1 ay önce

If you wrote this yourself I might have finished reading it

A.M. Burns profil fotoğrafı
A.M. Burns1 ay önce

Now do it without a safety line!

Stephen T. Crye profil fotoğrafı
Stephen T. Crye1 ay önce

I remember that well. It had the climbing world enthralled.

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Margo Hayes fell at La Rambla’s final hold-then delayed her return. In 2017, 19-year-old Margo Hayes became the first woman to climb a confirmed 5.15a-then one of climbing’s hardest grades-when she completed La Rambla at Siurana in Catalonia, Spain. The achievement looked sudden, but Hayes had spent the previous year building a base across fourteen 5.14 routes in seven climbing areas, deliberately learning different rock and movement instead of rehearsing one perfect test. La Rambla had already occupied her mind before she touched it, because she had studied videos and photographs of the famous 40-metre limestone line for months. Then Jon Cardwell and Matty Hong invited her to Spain, and the dream acquired an awkward limit: she had only one week. The route is not a single party trick, but a long chain of steep, powerful climbing whose hardest section waits high above the ground, after fatigue has begun stealing precision. That changes the job completely, because a move that works fresh can disappear when every unnecessary squeeze, late foot or wide swing has quietly spent the strength needed for the top. Hayes arrived from training for the US bouldering championships, so she trusted that her power was ready and that her endurance would return once she was back on a rope. Across seven days she refined the links, and on the sixth day she climbed through almost everything before falling from the final hold. Her planned return to France was due the next day, but leaving with every move solved-and the finish that close-would have turned one slip into the ending. She changed the plan and tied in again on 26 February. Watch the height of her feet in the clip, because she sometimes places a shoe where most climbers would expect a hand, raising her hips before her fingertips commit to the next tiny edge. That is the useful lesson inside the history (and the one route setters can reproduce): flexibility does not merely make a pose possible; it changes the distance and direction of the next move. Hayes started the successful attempt at about 4:25pm and spent roughly half an hour climbing, resting and protecting the small reserve she would need for the upper sequence. When she reached the last hold this time, the canyon erupted before she had fully absorbed what had happened. She cried, asked a friend to pinch her, and later celebrated with burgers alongside the people who had shared the week. Seven months later, Hayes climbed Biographie at Céüse in France, becoming the first woman to finish it and proving La Rambla was not one perfectly timed day. The first breakthrough still turns on the smallest contrast: one afternoon the final hold ended the attempt, and the next it opened the door.

The Boulderer

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Oprah Winfrey said she called Meghan Markle in early 2018 asking for an interview and was told “it wasn’t the right time.” Now it’s being spun as if the palace blocked it. If Oprah was so interested in Meghan, what stopped her from interviewing her before Harry was even in the picture? Where was that interest when Meghan was just another working actress trying to make it? Where was the sit-down when she was deep in Suits, far from global headlines? No one needed palace permission back then. No one was “banned.” No palace. No restrictions. No “people in the room.” No one to “block” anything. You want to blame the palace as if it was some kind of silencing move, but you fail to understand that instead it exposes what this really is. Meghan Markle was simply not someone Oprah was prioritising for a major sit-down. Nor was Meghan Markle relevant enough for that level of attention. It’s also interesting how Meghan frames it as not being “allowed” to speak privately, with others present, as if that’s unusual. She was about to marry into one of the most scrutinised institutions in the world. Of course communications are structured. That’s not some shocking revelation, that’s standard. Then comes the key line. “Now we can speak freely.” “Now I can say yes.” So what changed? It only became “the right time” once she had the global platform, the title, and the leverage that came with the royal connection. You can’t rewrite this into a story about being silenced by the palace when the timeline shows something much simpler. The demand wasn’t there before Harry. The value wasn’t there before the royal family connection. And suddenly, after everything, we’re supposed to believe this was always about “not being allowed” rather than finally having something to sell. Let that sink it.

Queen Esther

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John Carpenter on how Howard Hawks's "Rio Bravo" (1959) inspired him to become a filmmaker: "As I got older I began to see that certain directors did certain things. One of the earliest examples of this was Roger Corman. I started going to see these exciting, fast, kind of cheesy but really fun monster movies, and there was one name that kept coming up on the screen: Roger Corman. 'It Conquered the World' (1956), 'Not of This Earth' (1957), 'Attack of the Crab Monsters' (1957), 'The Undead' (1957)... But | really understood for the first time what a director did when I saw 'Rio Bravo' in 1959. There was something about that movie that was like home and I can't really explain it. It was held over in Bowling Green for three or four weeks in a row because people kept coming to see it. I abandoned to see what was new in the other movie house in town to see this movie every weekend again and again because there was something in it that was different from the other westerns I had seen. I had certainly seen John Wayne before. He had become a part of my growing-up experience. He was the action guy, the cowboy. He was the guy in 'Flying Tigers' (1942) who was flying the airplanes. So what was so different about that movie? Then I became aware of this credit: “Howard Hawks’ Rio Bravo.” I looked at the poster and I said to myself, “Who is this guy? He didn't write the movie and he wasn't starring in it so why is his name up here? And why is he last in the credits?” All these things started to occur to me, but it was the emotional impact of the film that got me to start using my brain. Some way I figure out that this director made that movie." ("The Prince of Darkness: The Prince of Darkness", Gilles Boulenger, 2001) P.S: Remembering the great American filmmaker Howard Hawks on his 130th birthday.

DepressedBergman

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1994. Parliament Lobby. Kampala. The Constituent Assembly was debating the shape of a new Uganda when a young army captain, Noble Mayombo, rose to move a motion. It was a small thing, on paper: Change the name of the national army. But Mayombo understood that names carry power. The Name and the Man: Mayombo's Motion for the UPDF - 1994 "This is no longer the army of a resistance," he told his fellow delegates. "It must be the defence force of a people." The motion was simple in phrasing but profound in meaning: That the National Resistance Army, born of the bush war, be renamed the Uganda People's Defence Forces. Mayombo reminded the Assembly that while the NRA had fought valiantly, it belonged to a chapter of struggle. A constitution, he argued, must speak for all citizens, not for a movement. The army's name had to project neutrality, professionalism, and national ownership. Mayombo's words carried weight beyond his years. He had fought in the bush, but he understood that the new constitution was meant to bury the divisions of the past and build a common future. By proposing the name change, he was not merely editing a document; He was redefining the relationship between the soldier and the citizen. The word "People's" was not cosmetic but constitutional, a signal that the guns were now bound by law, accountable to Ugandans rather than to a party. Outside the chamber, in the Parliament lobby, seasoned journalist Bart Kakooza intercepted Mayombo for an interview. Standing tall, the young captain repeated the essence of his argument into Kakooza's microphone. Through radio and newspapers, his vision reached far beyond Kampala. For many Ugandans, that was the first time they heard the phrase Uganda People's Defence Forces. It carried a freshness that suggested rebirth, a shift from partisan struggle to shared nationhood. When the Assembly finally voted and Article 208 enshrined the UPDF in the 1995 Constitution, the moment was sealed. The NRA passed into history, and the UPDF was born in law. For Noble Mayombo, it was more than a legal victory; it was his signature contribution to the republic. The image endures: A young man in Parliament, moving a motion with conviction, then stepping into the lobby to explain to a journalist, and to the nation, why Uganda's army must belong to the people. Mayombo's motion ensured that the army would no longer be the instrument of a movement, but the shield of a nation. It was not just semantics. It was a declaration that Uganda had moved from revolution to constitution, from the bullet to the ballot. The name change may have been a small clause in a long document, but it was the mark of a mind that understood that the words you choose determine the nation you build. What does it take to stand up in an assembly of elders and veterans and suggest that the revolution's army should be renamed for the people it serves? Noble Mayombo was a young captain when he moved that motion. He understood that constitutions are not just about power, they are about identity, and the names we give our institutions define the country we become. The NRA won the war. The UPDF was built to keep the peace. #UPDF #NRA #Ughistory NRM Party Uganda Peoples' Defence Forces (UPDF) Government of Uganda Bart Kakooza Uganda Media Centre

UgHistory

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Ben Affleck says JUSTICE LEAGUE was so TOXIC it became the lowest point of his entire career and says the studio using Zack Snyder’s daughter’s SUICIDE as an “excuse” was one of the SHITTIEST, GROSSEST things he’s ever seen in HOLLYWOOD Josh Horowitz: “So that, that was, I mean, you know, you, you bring it up, like, that was seeming like a perfect storm of horrible things happening. What was going on with Zack… was a horrible personal tragedy. You were going through it personally and professionally, and this film is like kind of collapsing in front of you. Like, did you kind of have any kind of moment of epiphany on that set about personal or professional?” Ben Affleck: “You know, the truth is that the experience of Justice League for me was so, so negative for lots of different reasons… some of which having to do just with where I was personally, some of which having to do with some of the tragedy that happened during that time, and also the fact that I really saw how not to make a movie like that, which is with the studio at odds with the filmmaker… you’re really making a mistake. And that was what really doomed that. I was really glad and gratified that Zack got to release… which was fucking great. And I was really happy for him. Boy, that was shitty that him being taken off that movie and the reshoots that we did. That’s… the low point of my career was that. Yeah, I mean, look, the personal thing… somebody’s death by suicide is… that eclipses everything. And then the way in which that was… used as an excuse, I just thought it was one of the shittiest things I’d ever seen… and it was so gross. And then the whole environment and vibe… that I sort of heard about secondhand in terms of Ray and Gal and other people’s experiences. It was just like, wow, this is about as gross as it gets. And I was drinking too much… that’s when I started to feel like, boy, I’d like to quit drinking and I’m having a hard time not drinking… And I got divorced. It was definitely a very difficult time for me personally… but those things while painful were not what impacted that movie. They just happened to be happening at the same time.”

Dunmola♋

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.DHH credits Marc Andreessen Marc Andreessen 🇺🇸 with helping him the most during the darkest time of his professional life: "It was during that rough going where Andreessen came in. We were a small company of 60 people and 20 took the offer and left. That's almost a third of the company that decided to leave and we got to a point where we were thinking that not many more have to leave before we need to worry about whether we can keep the lights on. And it was actually Tobi who then put me in contact with Marc Andreessen because Marc had been exposed to this phenomenon at some of his portfolio companies. And Marc gave us reassurance and a bunch of contacts. Marc said, "Do you need someone to come in to help do programming or help with operations or whatever?" And I was floored by the generosity because Marc and I haven't always seen eye to eye on things. Especially in terms of venture capital. He's been one of the main faces of venture capital for decades and I've been kind of critical at times. And it was just a realization that all those grievances we might have thought to be so big once upon a time were actually minuscule. We were fighting the white walkers on the other side of the wall and all our internal squabbles were going to be for nothing if those f*ckers got inside the wall and destroyed everything. And that felt like a real threat at the time. That could've happened. They could very well have just ripped the whole thing apart. And Marc clearly saw that that this was a collective, almost existential threat to the entire industry. If these activists were able to take over these institutions in the same way that they have taken over academia we would be f*cked and not just for a little while but potentially for decades. That couldn't stand. And Marc was incredibly helpful not just in terms of these contacts and introductions and so on but it was very powerful. When you have literally 40,000 people on Twitter calling you all the worst things in the world even the strongest individual might go for a second like "Holy sh*t. The mob is coming for me and there's no one else there." And there are other people there. Tobi was there. Marc was there. And it was incredibly helpful to give us the fortitude to go like "No do you know what? We're going to stick with it. We're not going to grovel. We're not going to apologize. We're not going to revert." And then what Marc also did was he gave me a syllabus for understanding the history of wokeness going all the way back to the '60s and beyond. That this didn't just come as lightning from a blue sky. This had an institutional grounding that was set in motion particularly in the '60s and the long march through the institutions, Herbert Marcuse and a lot of The Frankfurt School and all of these groups that had designs on how to reshape society and create the revolution they so dearly wanted, but with a timeline and a roadmap that was demarcated in decades. That it wasn't just like "Well we're going to put something together and then in two years something's going to happen." No they were sitting in the fucking '60s fantasizing about how to overthrow everything in the 2000s. It's actually incredible in a Dr. Evil sense of it but when you're on the receiving end of it it seemed a little less incredible and it was just difficult not knowing where's this coming from? Why is this happening all of a sudden? Well it wasn't happening all of a sudden. There was this long history of it and when you understood that history it made a lot more sense. We weren't just making a rejection for our little corner of the world. We were chipping in in the great civilizational battle of where this country was going to go, whether the white walkers beyond the wall were going to win. And we were like "No they're not going to f*cking win. Get them out of that f*cking wall. Take your goddamn spear and fire it with maximum velocity."

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Elon Musk was asked how fast AI is moving. His answer wasn’t about the technology. It was about the one man who got it all right and was still too conservative. Musk: “I have to give credit to Ray Kurzweil in being actually remarkably accurate in his predictions. If anything, I think he was perhaps a bit conservative in his predictions.” Kurzweil spent 30 years making forecasts that made serious people uncomfortable. He predicted timelines that sounded impossible. He was mocked for it. He was right about nearly all of them. And Musk just called him conservative. Musk: “The dedicated AI compute appears to be growing by a factor of 10 every six months.” 10x every six months. Musk: “Almost a 100x improvement per year, at least for the next few years.” Moore’s Law was a 2x improvement every two years. That single curve drove every technological shift of the last 50 years. The internet. Smartphones. Cloud computing. All of it rode a 2x curve. AI is on a 100x curve. And the current infrastructure isn’t running beside the new one. It’s becoming it. Musk: “Probably a lot of the data centers, maybe most of the data centers that currently do conventional compute, will transition to AI compute.” Everything that runs the world you know is being rewired for the world that comes next. Human beings process the future in straight lines. We take the speed of the last decade and project it forward. Exponential growth doesn’t work that way. It’s invisible until it’s everywhere. The most aggressive forecaster in the history of technology was too conservative. That’s not about Kurzweil being wrong about the direction. That’s about the human brain being wrong about the speed. The limit was never the technology. It was the organ we use to comprehend it. And that organ hasn’t been upgraded in 200,000 years.

Dustin

214,257 görüntüleme • 5 ay önce

Today we lower the curtain on a life that spent itself teaching Uganda how to see its own reflection on a stage. To call him a playwright is true but insufficient. Mukulu was an institution unto himself. Those of us in this trade know what it costs to build a body of work like that, the rehearsals that ran too late, the casts he pushed because he refused to let anyone perform beneath what he knew they had in them. The arguments about a line or a gesture that felt, in the moment, like they mattered more than anything in the world. His language during rehearsals sometimes sounded vulgar to the young cast built around us but Art has no sanity. It’s as it is and what it is. More so, Mwami Mukulu was famous, actually notorious for his conduct as Director but the cast understood him and appreciate him. For demanding of his actors the same relentless standard he demanded of himself. That sternness was never cruelty. It was reverence. He simply could not treat the stage as anything less than sacred, and he made sure everyone who stood on one with him understood that too. He was, by every account, a difficult man to satisfy and an impossible man to forget. That is, in the end, the whole job description of a master to me a GRANDMASTER. Alex Mukulu did not simply entertain a country, he gave it a mirror and he held that mirror steady for almost fifty years, through changing governments and changing audiences. Never once flinching from what it showed. That is the work of a grand master of this craft, and it is the work he leaves in our hands now. Rest well, my Idol my inspiration Mr Director Alex Mukulu. The stage is dark tonight because you are no longer on it but everywhere US your students, your casts and your audiences carry a piece of what you taught us. The lights are still on Boss🫡 #SleepwellGrandMaster

#JohnSegawaArts🇺🇬

12,872 görüntüleme • 2 ay önce