During the 2020 lockdown, I was having a conversation with a tailor over the phone who worried about whether he would go out of business. You see, there's a reason tailors incur tremendous costs to fly overseas and meet with clients. It's hard to make a proper suit for... someone without seeing them in person. You need to measure them, fit them, and press around their body to see whether the armhole is high enough. That can't be reliably done through a Zoom meeting. Sartoria Pastena is one of the few companies I've seen deliver good custom tailoring online. When I was on a menswear forum, some fellow members were sending their clothes to this Neapolitan tailor to have them copied. That, of course, is slightly different from starting new, but the results were surprisingly good. Using existing clothes for base measurements, Pastena was able to produce things for people in far-flung places without having ever seen them in person. Pastena eventually became so popular on the forum that one of the members arranged to fly them out to Minneapolis. That trip soon expanded to ten cities, which stretch across the United States. One of their clients is David Lane Design, who I think always looks great. Since they're based in Naples, Pastena specializes in a style characteristic of the region. That means a soft, natural shoulder teamed with an extended front dart that runs from the chest to the hem. It also means using softer canvases and minimal shoulder padding, and eliminating the layer of domette common in English tailoring. The result is the softest possible version of tailoring, with things being just a shirt jacket, making it particularly suitable for warmer climates. Over the years, I've been impressed by Pastena's ability to handle different body types and produce very clean-looking suits and sport coats. In the third slide, you can see how one of their jackets looks in motion (the video is from the IG menswearmemoir). The good news is that they're now touring through the US, so you don't have to use their remote services. But should you ever move to a city they don't visit, they're one of the few companies I would trust with a remote order. Finally, my usual disclosure: these are not paid tweets, as I don't do paid tweets. I don't get anything from making these announcements: no free clothes, discounted clothes, money, kickbacks, store credit, or whatever else. I make these announcements simply because I love craft-based clothing and it's my pleasure to tell people about tailors, so they can continue their craft. If you have questions, please contact the tailors directly, as I'm not their representative.show more

derek guy

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