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How to Replace a Front Strut/Shock Assembly. Done to perfection. Time to swap out those worn-out front struts and get that smooth ride back! Here is a breakdown of exactly how it’s done: 1. Remove the Old Assembly Bottom Bolt: Use an impact wrench and a backup wrench to... remove the lower mounting bolt securing the strut to the control arm. Top Nuts: Head under the hood and unbolt the top strut mount nuts from the tower. Extraction: Carefully pull the entire strut and coil spring assembly out of the wheel well. 2. Compress the Coil Spring ⚠️ Safety First: Coil springs are under intense pressure. Use high-quality spring compressors and ensure they are locked securely in place before tightening. Attach the spring compressors to opposite sides of the coil. Evenly compress the spring using an impact wrench until the tension is completely off the top mount. Unbolt the top strut nut and remove the upper mount and the old shock absorber body. 3. Assemble the New Strut Unbox the brand-new shock absorber and verify it matches the old one. Slide the compressed coil spring, bump stop, and upper mount assembly onto the new strut shaft. Secure and tighten the top center nut. Decompress: Slowly and evenly back off the spring compressors until the spring sits perfectly in its rubber seats. 4. Reinstallation Guide the new assembly back into the wheel well. Hand-tighten the top tower nuts under the hood, then zip them down securely. Align the lower mount with the control arm, slide the bottom bolt through, and torque it to spec.show more

Chuckling Charlie

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196,870 просмотров • 2 месяцев назад •via X (Twitter)

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$Replacing a Bad Wheel Bearing job done right. If you hear a roaring noise while driving or feel a massive amount of wobble in your wheel, you’re likely dealing with a shot wheel bearing. Leaving it unchecked isn't just annoying—it’s dangerous. Here is exactly how to tear it down, prep the surface, and install a fresh hub assembly correctly: 1. The Disassembly Remove the Wheel: Pop off the center hub cap, spin off the lug nuts with an impact wrench, and pull the wheel off the vehicle. Clear the Brakes: Unbolt the brake caliper bracket and lift the entire assembly away from the rotor. Pro-tip: Always hang the caliper securely so it doesn't strain the rubber brake line. Pull the Rotor: Remove the small retention screw holding the rotor to the hub. Give it a few taps with a rubber mallet to break the rust free, then slide the rotor off. Disconnect the Extras: To get clean access to the back of the hub, unbolt the lower control arm/suspension link. Carefully unbolt and pull the ABS wheel speed sensor out of the knuckle so you don't damage the wiring. Drop the Old Hub: Back out the bolts securing the wheel bearing assembly from behind the knuckle. A few solid strikes with a hammer will break the old, worn-out hub free. 2. The Critical Step: Prep Work Clean the Knuckle: A new part won't seat properly in a rusty home. Use a wire brush tool attached to a drill to aggressively clean out the corrosion and debris inside the knuckle, then blast it clean with brake cleaner. Be Nice to the Next Guy: Apply a generous coat of anti-seize lubricant to the inside of the knuckle and mounting surfaces. If you ever have to do this job again, you'll thank yourself. 3. Reassembly & Torque Specs Seat the New Hub: Align the brand-new wheel hub assembly and press it firmly into the clean knuckle. Torque It Down: Thread the wheel bearing bolts and suspension links back in. Never guess here—use a digital torque wrench to lock everything down to factory specifications. Plug in the Sensor: Reinstall the ABS sensor back into its slot and secure it. Reset the Brakes: Slide the rotor back over the studs, mount the caliper bracket back over the rotor, and torque the mounting bolts to spec (110\text{ NM} / ~ 81\text{ ft-lbs}). 4. Final Touch Mount the wheel back on, hand-start your lug nuts, and snug them down in a star pattern. Snap that center cap back on, and you are ready for a smooth, noise-free ride. Doing it right takes a little extra time, but proper cleaning and exact torque specs mean this repair will last.$

Replacing a Bad Wheel Bearing job done right. If you hear a roaring noise while driving or feel a massive amount of wobble in your wheel, you’re likely dealing with a shot wheel bearing. Leaving it unchecked isn't just annoying—it’s dangerous. Here is exactly how to tear it down, prep the surface, and install a fresh hub assembly correctly: 1. The Disassembly Remove the Wheel: Pop off the center hub cap, spin off the lug nuts with an impact wrench, and pull the wheel off the vehicle. Clear the Brakes: Unbolt the brake caliper bracket and lift the entire assembly away from the rotor. Pro-tip: Always hang the caliper securely so it doesn't strain the rubber brake line. Pull the Rotor: Remove the small retention screw holding the rotor to the hub. Give it a few taps with a rubber mallet to break the rust free, then slide the rotor off. Disconnect the Extras: To get clean access to the back of the hub, unbolt the lower control arm/suspension link. Carefully unbolt and pull the ABS wheel speed sensor out of the knuckle so you don't damage the wiring. Drop the Old Hub: Back out the bolts securing the wheel bearing assembly from behind the knuckle. A few solid strikes with a hammer will break the old, worn-out hub free. 2. The Critical Step: Prep Work Clean the Knuckle: A new part won't seat properly in a rusty home. Use a wire brush tool attached to a drill to aggressively clean out the corrosion and debris inside the knuckle, then blast it clean with brake cleaner. Be Nice to the Next Guy: Apply a generous coat of anti-seize lubricant to the inside of the knuckle and mounting surfaces. If you ever have to do this job again, you'll thank yourself. 3. Reassembly & Torque Specs Seat the New Hub: Align the brand-new wheel hub assembly and press it firmly into the clean knuckle. Torque It Down: Thread the wheel bearing bolts and suspension links back in. Never guess here—use a digital torque wrench to lock everything down to factory specifications. Plug in the Sensor: Reinstall the ABS sensor back into its slot and secure it. Reset the Brakes: Slide the rotor back over the studs, mount the caliper bracket back over the rotor, and torque the mounting bolts to spec (110\text{ NM} / ~ 81\text{ ft-lbs}). 4. Final Touch Mount the wheel back on, hand-start your lug nuts, and snug them down in a star pattern. Snap that center cap back on, and you are ready for a smooth, noise-free ride. Doing it right takes a little extra time, but proper cleaning and exact torque specs mean this repair will last.

Chuckling Charlie

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It’s been a while… Here’s what we’re up to at the moment. Replacing a section of old stone drainage, the top end is still functioning perfectly, and it’s probably 200+ years old. Oh, and the sun is shining and there’s a whiff of spring in the air 😊 Happy days

It’s been a while… Here’s what we’re up to at the moment. Replacing a section of old stone drainage, the top end is still functioning perfectly, and it’s probably 200+ years old. Oh, and the sun is shining and there’s a whiff of spring in the air 😊 Happy days

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11,241 просмотров • 5 месяцев назад

F350 Rear Differential Service done right. Step by step pure ASMR. If you want to keep your heavy-duty truck running smoothly, keeping up with your differential maintenance is non-negotiable. Whether you are dealing with a standard cover or a high-capacity unit, taking the time to properly clean, seal, and refill your rear diff will save you from major mechanical headaches down the road. Here is a comprehensive breakdown of the exact process shown in the video to get the job done right. Step 1: Remove the Housing Bolts Pop the truck up on a lift or secure it on jack stands. Position a drain pan underneath the differential. Grab an impact wrench and begin backing out all of the bolts securing the differential cover to the housing. Pro-Tip: Leave one or two bolts loosely threaded at the very top of the cover. This keeps the cover from falling completely off and splashing old gear oil everywhere once you break the factory seal. Step 2: Drain the Old Fluid Once the lower bolts are removed, use a chisel and a dead-blow hammer to gently tap the lower edge of the cover. Pry it open slightly to break the old gasket seal and let the fluid drain smoothly into your catch pan. Once the majority of the oil has drained, remove the top safety bolts and take the cover completely off. Step 3: Prep the Differential Housing With the gears exposed, stuff a clean shop rag inside the housing cavity to protect the ring and pinion from any loose debris. Use a gasket scraper or razor to carefully peel away the old silicone sealant from the mating surface. Follow up with a die grinder equipped with a surface conditioning disc to polish the flange completely clean, then remove the rag and wipe down the interior edge with brake cleaner. Step 4: Deep Clean the Diff Cover Take the removed differential cover over to a parts washer. Use a solvent brush to scrub out any residual sludge, metal filings, and old oil. If the exterior has built-up road grime or rust, give it a quick pressure wash or hose down. Finally, use an air blow gun to thoroughly dry the cover, ensuring absolutely no moisture or solvent remains inside. Step 5: Apply New RTV Sealant Lay the clean cover flat on your workbench. Grab a high-performance RTV silicone sealant (ensure it is rated for gear oil exposure) and lay down a clean, continuous bead along the center of the mating flange. Make sure to loop around the inside of each bolt hole to prevent future leaks. Step 6: Reinstall the Cover and Torque Carefully align the cover back onto the differential housing, making sure not to smudge the fresh RTV bead. Hand-start all of your bolts to avoid cross-threading. Once they are all in place, use a ratchet to tighten them down in a star pattern, ensuring even pressure across the gasket surface. Step 7: Fill with Fresh Gear Oil Locate the fill plug on the side or rear of the differential and remove it. Grab your premium synthetic fluid—such as SAE 75W-85 hypoid gear lubricant. Insert the bottle nozzle into the fill hole and squeeze the fluid in. You will need to continue filling until the fluid level reaches the bottom edge of the fill hole and just begins to weep out. Step 8: Reinstall the Fill Plug & Inspect Wipe away any excess fluid that leaked out during the filling process. Reinstall the fill plug and torque it to spec. Give the entire assembly one final look to ensure your seals are clean and dry.

F350 Rear Differential Service done right. Step by step pure ASMR. If you want to keep your heavy-duty truck running smoothly, keeping up with your differential maintenance is non-negotiable. Whether you are dealing with a standard cover or a high-capacity unit, taking the time to properly clean, seal, and refill your rear diff will save you from major mechanical headaches down the road. Here is a comprehensive breakdown of the exact process shown in the video to get the job done right. Step 1: Remove the Housing Bolts Pop the truck up on a lift or secure it on jack stands. Position a drain pan underneath the differential. Grab an impact wrench and begin backing out all of the bolts securing the differential cover to the housing. Pro-Tip: Leave one or two bolts loosely threaded at the very top of the cover. This keeps the cover from falling completely off and splashing old gear oil everywhere once you break the factory seal. Step 2: Drain the Old Fluid Once the lower bolts are removed, use a chisel and a dead-blow hammer to gently tap the lower edge of the cover. Pry it open slightly to break the old gasket seal and let the fluid drain smoothly into your catch pan. Once the majority of the oil has drained, remove the top safety bolts and take the cover completely off. Step 3: Prep the Differential Housing With the gears exposed, stuff a clean shop rag inside the housing cavity to protect the ring and pinion from any loose debris. Use a gasket scraper or razor to carefully peel away the old silicone sealant from the mating surface. Follow up with a die grinder equipped with a surface conditioning disc to polish the flange completely clean, then remove the rag and wipe down the interior edge with brake cleaner. Step 4: Deep Clean the Diff Cover Take the removed differential cover over to a parts washer. Use a solvent brush to scrub out any residual sludge, metal filings, and old oil. If the exterior has built-up road grime or rust, give it a quick pressure wash or hose down. Finally, use an air blow gun to thoroughly dry the cover, ensuring absolutely no moisture or solvent remains inside. Step 5: Apply New RTV Sealant Lay the clean cover flat on your workbench. Grab a high-performance RTV silicone sealant (ensure it is rated for gear oil exposure) and lay down a clean, continuous bead along the center of the mating flange. Make sure to loop around the inside of each bolt hole to prevent future leaks. Step 6: Reinstall the Cover and Torque Carefully align the cover back onto the differential housing, making sure not to smudge the fresh RTV bead. Hand-start all of your bolts to avoid cross-threading. Once they are all in place, use a ratchet to tighten them down in a star pattern, ensuring even pressure across the gasket surface. Step 7: Fill with Fresh Gear Oil Locate the fill plug on the side or rear of the differential and remove it. Grab your premium synthetic fluid—such as SAE 75W-85 hypoid gear lubricant. Insert the bottle nozzle into the fill hole and squeeze the fluid in. You will need to continue filling until the fluid level reaches the bottom edge of the fill hole and just begins to weep out. Step 8: Reinstall the Fill Plug & Inspect Wipe away any excess fluid that leaked out during the filling process. Reinstall the fill plug and torque it to spec. Give the entire assembly one final look to ensure your seals are clean and dry.

Chuckling Charlie

173,389 просмотров • 2 месяцев назад

This is such a smarter way to fix a door that sticks at the top. Instead of pulling the whole door off and planing it down (then having to prime and paint), he just pops the top hinge pin, shims the door over, and uses a crescent wrench to gently bend the hinge loops back into alignment. Two minutes and it’s done. No mess, no refinishing, and it works just as well on the bottom of the door too. Why don’t more people know about this trick?

This is such a smarter way to fix a door that sticks at the top. Instead of pulling the whole door off and planing it down (then having to prime and paint), he just pops the top hinge pin, shims the door over, and uses a crescent wrench to gently bend the hinge loops back into alignment. Two minutes and it’s done. No mess, no refinishing, and it works just as well on the bottom of the door too. Why don’t more people know about this trick?

End3of6Days9 (Helen) 🇺🇸

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How to Resurface Brake Rotors Like a Pro. Pure ASMR . Got a brake pedal that feels like a foot massage every time you slow down? It’s probably time to address those warped rotors. Instead of throwing them straight into the scrap bin, you can often give them a second life by turning them on a brake lathe. Here is the exact step-by-step process to get that perfectly smooth, true finish: Step 1: Mount the Rotor Place the brake rotor securely onto the lathe spindle. Slide on the correct-sized adapters to ensure the rotor centers perfectly on the shaft. Thread on the arbor nut and tighten it down to lock everything firmly in place. Step 2: Install the Silencer Band Don't skip this part unless you want your eardrums ringing. Wrap the rubber anti-chatter silencer band tightly around the outer edge of the rotor. Secure the spring hook. This dampens high-frequency vibrations and prevents high-pitched squealing while cutting. Step 3: Fire Up the Machine Flip the power switch to the ON position to get the rotor spinning. Take a quick second to make sure everything looks centered and isn't wobbling on the spindle. Step 4: Position Your Cutting Bits Use the handwheels to bring the twin cutting arms into position. Align the diamond-tipped cutting bits so they are just clearing both the inner and outer surfaces of the rotor. Step 5: Dial in the Depth of Cut Carefully adjust the micrometers on both sides to set your depth. For a standard scratch pass or light resurfacing, dial it in precisely to take off just enough material to clear the high spots and rust ridges. Step 6: Engage the Automatic Feed Turn up your speed control unit and engage the automatic feed mechanism. Sit back and let the machine work its magic as the cutting bits slowly move outward, cutting away imperfections and restoring a completely flat surface. Step 7: The Final Touch Once the automatic pass is complete, lightly run a piece of medium-grit sandpaper or a sanding block across the spinning rotor surfaces. This knocks down any microscopic ridges left by the bits and creates a clean, non-directional finish for optimal brake pad bedding. Step 8: Tear Down Shut the power off. Use your wrench to loosen the arbor nut, unhook the silencer band, and slide your perfectly resurfaced rotor off the machine.

How to Resurface Brake Rotors Like a Pro. Pure ASMR . Got a brake pedal that feels like a foot massage every time you slow down? It’s probably time to address those warped rotors. Instead of throwing them straight into the scrap bin, you can often give them a second life by turning them on a brake lathe. Here is the exact step-by-step process to get that perfectly smooth, true finish: Step 1: Mount the Rotor Place the brake rotor securely onto the lathe spindle. Slide on the correct-sized adapters to ensure the rotor centers perfectly on the shaft. Thread on the arbor nut and tighten it down to lock everything firmly in place. Step 2: Install the Silencer Band Don't skip this part unless you want your eardrums ringing. Wrap the rubber anti-chatter silencer band tightly around the outer edge of the rotor. Secure the spring hook. This dampens high-frequency vibrations and prevents high-pitched squealing while cutting. Step 3: Fire Up the Machine Flip the power switch to the ON position to get the rotor spinning. Take a quick second to make sure everything looks centered and isn't wobbling on the spindle. Step 4: Position Your Cutting Bits Use the handwheels to bring the twin cutting arms into position. Align the diamond-tipped cutting bits so they are just clearing both the inner and outer surfaces of the rotor. Step 5: Dial in the Depth of Cut Carefully adjust the micrometers on both sides to set your depth. For a standard scratch pass or light resurfacing, dial it in precisely to take off just enough material to clear the high spots and rust ridges. Step 6: Engage the Automatic Feed Turn up your speed control unit and engage the automatic feed mechanism. Sit back and let the machine work its magic as the cutting bits slowly move outward, cutting away imperfections and restoring a completely flat surface. Step 7: The Final Touch Once the automatic pass is complete, lightly run a piece of medium-grit sandpaper or a sanding block across the spinning rotor surfaces. This knocks down any microscopic ridges left by the bits and creates a clean, non-directional finish for optimal brake pad bedding. Step 8: Tear Down Shut the power off. Use your wrench to loosen the arbor nut, unhook the silencer band, and slide your perfectly resurfaced rotor off the machine.

Chuckling Charlie

91,374 просмотров • 1 месяц назад

#SpaceX is preparing to move the massive new #Starship launch mount structure for #Starbase Pad B to the launch site for installation. In this post, I’ll give an overview of the design and use my 3D models to calculate the structure’s mass in its current configuration. This new launch mount, nearly an entire redesign, is SpaceX’s best effort at correcting many of the issues discovered with the mount at Pad A after a handful of launches. The only similarity between this mount and the original launch mount for Pad A is that 20 arms will still be used to support the #SuperHeavy booster before liftoff. However, the arms and everything else making up the structure are entirely different.

#SpaceX is preparing to move the massive new #Starship launch mount structure for #Starbase Pad B to the launch site for installation. In this post, I’ll give an overview of the design and use my 3D models to calculate the structure’s mass in its current configuration. This new launch mount, nearly an entire redesign, is SpaceX’s best effort at correcting many of the issues discovered with the mount at Pad A after a handful of launches. The only similarity between this mount and the original launch mount for Pad A is that 20 arms will still be used to support the #SuperHeavy booster before liftoff. However, the arms and everything else making up the structure are entirely different.

Ryan Hansen Space

69,776 просмотров • 1 год назад

It's impressive how modern WordPress can look if you remove the Admin Menu and Top Bar. Inspired by the new shadcn sidebar release, I decided to extend #WordPress to use that new sidebar solution as opposed to the current one. This is WordPress core, just without the old Admin Menu and Top Bar, and the background set to be white, not the current grey. Feels like a brand new platform!

James LePage

29,476 просмотров • 1 год назад

2027 C Drew Cross Drew Cross | Mount Pleasant Baseball Pop: 1.79-1.87 | C velo: 80 Inf Velo: 91 Max Exit Velo: 95.8 Cross continues to show why he is one of the top catchers in Texas for the ‘27 class. + arm and a quick transfer gave him best pop time of the preseason. Continues to show 🧃 at the plate. Part of a talented Mount Pleasant squad headed into this spring. Shooter Hunt | @PBRGowins

2027 C Drew Cross Drew Cross | Mount Pleasant Baseball Pop: 1.79-1.87 | C velo: 80 Inf Velo: 91 Max Exit Velo: 95.8 Cross continues to show why he is one of the top catchers in Texas for the ‘27 class. + arm and a quick transfer gave him best pop time of the preseason. Continues to show 🧃 at the plate. Part of a talented Mount Pleasant squad headed into this spring. Shooter Hunt | @PBRGowins

Prep Baseball Texas

10,797 просмотров • 1 год назад

Glimpse into the world of an oil change done with ease by a pro. Ever wonder what a flawless, textbook oil change looks like when performed by a pro? We broke it down step-by-step to show you the precision, care, and cleanliness required for a job done right. Step 1: The Drain & Prep First things first: getting that old oil out. The mechanic lifts the vehicle, locates the drain plug, and carefully loosens it. Bringing over the oil catchment system ensures no mess. The plug is removed, allowing the dirty oil to drain out completely. Step 2: The Filter Swap (The Clean Way) Changing the oil filter can get messy—but not on our watch. The mechanic uses a clever, moldable green deflector tool to create a funnel underneath the filter. As the old filter is unscrewed, the excess oil catches and flows perfectly into the basin without touching the car's frame. Once drained, the old filter is removed, the mating surface is wiped clean with a fresh rag, and a brand-new blue filter is prepped and securely hand-tightened into place. Step 3: Resealing & Torquing Before anything else, the drain plug needs to go back in. The mechanic cleans the area, threads the plug by hand, and then uses a precision torque wrench to tighten the lugs on the wheels to exact factory specifications. No overtightening, no stripped threads—just perfect calibration. Step 4: The Fresh Refill With the underside completely sealed, the car is lowered. A clean funnel is placed into the engine bay, and fresh, golden oil is metered out and poured in. The oil cap is twisted back on securely. Step 5: Verification A quick turn of the ignition to let the new oil circulate through the engine, followed by a dipstick check. The mechanic pulls the dipstick, wipes it clean, inserts it again, and reads the level to confirm it is exactly where it needs to be. Step 6: The Showroom Finish We don’t just stop at the mechanical work. To wrap it all up perfectly, the engine bay gets a thorough pressure wash and detail, blowing away any dust or road grime. The hood is shut, and this Honda is officially ready to hit the road for thousands of trouble-free miles. Efficiency. Precision. Cleanliness. That’s how a job is done perfectly.

Chuckling Charlie

278,507 просмотров • 2 месяцев назад

Health workers under the Joint Health Sector Unions and the Assembly of Healthcare Professional Associations are protesting at Unity Fountain over a proposed health sector regulatory bill before the National Assembly. They oppose the bill, arguing it would place all medical professions under the Medical and Dental Council of Nigeria, and that the new bill is seeking to make other health professionals second-class to medical doctors. #ChannelsTVNews

Health workers under the Joint Health Sector Unions and the Assembly of Healthcare Professional Associations are protesting at Unity Fountain over a proposed health sector regulatory bill before the National Assembly. They oppose the bill, arguing it would place all medical professions under the Medical and Dental Council of Nigeria, and that the new bill is seeking to make other health professionals second-class to medical doctors. #ChannelsTVNews

Channels Television

15,777 просмотров • 4 месяцев назад

🇷🇺🇺🇦 THE PIPELINE ASSAULT EXPLAINED: Commander “Zombie”, who participated in the operation, explaines how it was done: 1) The gas pressure pumps were stoped and the gas was sucked out 2) Oxygen was pumped into the pipeline 3) Diggers dug out rooms for assembly and toilets were installed 4) Water, food and ammunition was brought in to these assembly rooms 5) 800 soldiers went through the pipe to the assembly rooms 6) The soldiers waited 4 days in the assembly rooms and in the pipe close to the exit 7) When the signal was given, the ran out and went into the industry zone of Sudzha 8) The Ukranian army was surprised to see such a huge force in their rear, they began to panic and became disorganized 9) Russians liberated many settlements in Kursk region, due to this The preparation lasted 3 weeks. He is well-known commander formally of the Wagner PMC, with the call sign "Zombie", now a commander of the Vostok battalion. WOW, that is a crazy operation and since Ukranian pocket in Kursk collapsed to a big extend, it is evident that it worked.

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Lord Bebo

1,006,313 просмотров • 1 год назад

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#WATCH | Srinagar | Jammu and Kashmir CM Omar Abdullah says, "...We said in the manifesto that we would remove the Public Safety and Security Act (PSA) from Jammu and Kashmir. To remove it, we must have statehood. Security, law and order, all these things should be under the control of the elected government. The day these things are ours, I won't even wait for the assembly session. We will remove the Jammu and Kashmir Public Safety Act (PSA) through an ordinance"

ANI

251,515 просмотров • 10 месяцев назад

ELECTION WATCH: Here's why the Liberals want a spring election, and why they're likely to make it happen. Timestamps: 0:00 Michelle thinks the Libs want a spring election, they have motive and opportunity 1:53 Motive #1: Carney wants a majority because he doesn't want to negotiate in a minority Parliament 7:40 Motive #2: This is the best polling the Liberals are going to get, it's all downhill from here 9:12 Motive #3: Carney’s approvals are sliding 12:00 Motive #4: The issues aren't in the Liberal’s favour beyond the spring 23:15 Opportunity #1: The fall Quebec election 30:03 Opportunity #2: The Canadian MSM coverage of US politics is going to change in the fall 35:12 Opportunity #3: The psychology of a spring election on the electorate 36:42 Opportunity #4: Liberals running government ads sign of a ramp-up for a spring election

ELECTION WATCH: Here's why the Liberals want a spring election, and why they're likely to make it happen. Timestamps: 0:00 Michelle thinks the Libs want a spring election, they have motive and opportunity 1:53 Motive #1: Carney wants a majority because he doesn't want to negotiate in a minority Parliament 7:40 Motive #2: This is the best polling the Liberals are going to get, it's all downhill from here 9:12 Motive #3: Carney’s approvals are sliding 12:00 Motive #4: The issues aren't in the Liberal’s favour beyond the spring 23:15 Opportunity #1: The fall Quebec election 30:03 Opportunity #2: The Canadian MSM coverage of US politics is going to change in the fall 35:12 Opportunity #3: The psychology of a spring election on the electorate 36:42 Opportunity #4: Liberals running government ads sign of a ramp-up for a spring election

Michelle Rempel Garner

43,351 просмотров • 7 месяцев назад

Some have been asking me how I broke open the top part - hopefully this is helpful😅 Essentially, you will need to find the pressure points along the vertical opening of the top. I find it easier to apply slight pressure, with the bottom of your palm, around the top area, then flip it upside down and apply some more pressure on the upper area on the opposite side. After that, slowly apply some pressure at the bottom to loosen the lock. Do a few more rounds of this. Hopefully someone manage to find an easier way to break this open 😮‍💨 Handle and proceed with caution! ⚠️

Some have been asking me how I broke open the top part - hopefully this is helpful😅 Essentially, you will need to find the pressure points along the vertical opening of the top. I find it easier to apply slight pressure, with the bottom of your palm, around the top area, then flip it upside down and apply some more pressure on the upper area on the opposite side. After that, slowly apply some pressure at the bottom to loosen the lock. Do a few more rounds of this. Hopefully someone manage to find an easier way to break this open 😮‍💨 Handle and proceed with caution! ⚠️

Mal 🧸

57,035 просмотров • 1 год назад

With a top speed of of 104 mph and designated the fastest tank in the world, the Christie M1931 "Combat Car" was an experimental wheel-to-track vehicle built in the early 1930s. It used helical coil spring suspension and could convert from tracks to large road wheels in about 30 minutes. It was powered by a 338 hp Liberty V-12 aircraft engine. Cavalry versions mounted a .50 caliber heavy machine gun with a coaxial .30 caliber machine gun. Around 7-9 units were produced from 1931 to 1932. The Army retired them by 1936 due to high costs and mechanical complexity.

With a top speed of of 104 mph and designated the fastest tank in the world, the Christie M1931 "Combat Car" was an experimental wheel-to-track vehicle built in the early 1930s. It used helical coil spring suspension and could convert from tracks to large road wheels in about 30 minutes. It was powered by a 338 hp Liberty V-12 aircraft engine. Cavalry versions mounted a .50 caliber heavy machine gun with a coaxial .30 caliber machine gun. Around 7-9 units were produced from 1931 to 1932. The Army retired them by 1936 due to high costs and mechanical complexity.

Aviation Archive - Tim Farmer

83,934 просмотров • 5 месяцев назад