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jackfort is one of the coolest projects i've seen in a while. classic outerwear — field coats, army coats, raincoats — done in cool ways, such as a patchwork army jacket made from different pieces of vintage milsurp fabric. or a peacoat from fuzzy casentino wool. all made in...

69,905 次观看 • 8 个月前 •via X (Twitter)

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I think Hasan could use a tailor, but I disagree with your reaction to that specific suit. My impression is that Hasan's jackets don't fit as well as they could because he has a very broad chest. In the first photo, you can see how the jacket's collar isn't really seated correctly, which is causing the lapels to spread apart. In the past, I've talked about a collar gap, where the back of the jacket's collar lifts from the person's neck. This can be easier to spot in two-dimensional images. But a correctly seated collar isn't just about that one part — it's about the totality of the collar. In the second slide, you can see photos of four men with similarly broad chests. None of the men featured in this tweet have a collar gap. But notice how, in the second slide, the jacket collars sit better on all four men. They come up on the wearers. Edwin DeBoise, founder of the bespoke tailoring house Steed, once explained this to me as an issue of crooking and straightening a jacket. I should warn ahead of time: this issue is controversial among tailors and notoriously difficult to explain even in person, let alone online. The issue revolves around something called the neck point, where the jacket's shoulder seam meets the collar. When drafting a pattern, a tailor can adjust the neck point and shoulder line so the collar sits correctly for the person's build and posture. In the video featuring Edwin, you can see how a jacket can be thrown off depending on whether the person has a prominent chest and erect posture or a small chest and stands very stooped. You can try this at home. Put on a tailored jacket (suit jacket or sport coat) and throw your chest out like you're very proud. This will cause the jacket to be thrown off your shoulders. This is similar to what's happening on Hasan's jackets. To fix this, the tailor will need to adjust the neck point, which can only be done during the pattern drafting stage. You can't adjust it in ready-to-wear. Many made-to-measure programs, possibly even most, can't accommodate this. In the fourth and final slide, you can see Hasan in a Zhongshan suit, which is a traditional Chinese garment modeled after something Sun Yat-sen used to wear (which, in turn, is modeled after gakurans, a Japanese school uniform). You can see this suit does not have this problem. Whatever you may think of the style, it's well tailored in a technical sense. If the jacket's neck point were incorrectly placed, you would see the top few buttons starting to pull. Instead, the body fits very cleanly and the front-back balance (how the jacket hangs from the shoulders when seen from the side), seems to be correct. Many people nowadays use the term "tailor" to mean all sorts of things. For instance, if they see trousers they think are too baggy, they will often say something like "those pants need to be tailored." All they are really saying is "that garment needs to be slimmed down." This is partly because their experience with tailoring is limited to alterations and they are mostly buying ready-to-wear. But tailoring isn't just about slimming things down. Something can fit quite full and still be made correctly. IMO, it's useful to separate out the styling of a garment from its technical construction/ fit.

derek guy

1,462,993 次观看 • 3 天前

Personally, I'm not into half- or quarter-zips, but the style undeniably works for certain personalities, such as boring suburban dad types (I say this affectionately). If you want to wear one, I think half- and quarter-zips do better when they feel like sportswear or have texture. Notably, the King of Spain's quarter-zip appears to be made of a heavier fabric and fits a bit fuller, giving it a rounded silhouette. You can see something similar in slides two and three. In slide two, we see a Drake's quarter-zip made from Casentino, a Florentine textile traditionally used for winter overcoats. This heavier, stiffer material gives the garment its own kind of structure that would not be possible with a softer, lighter-weight material. Michael Hill, co-owner and creative director at Drake's, told me some years ago that this design was inspired by an old running jacket in his wardrobe. (Remember this word: sportswear). Aaron Levine did something similar earlier this year. In slide three, you can see a half-zip he made from a wool boucle fabric. Boucle has a texture similar to the hair on a Bichon Frisé. This half-zip has a roomy, cropped body, which gives it a rounded silhouette. The adjustable cord at the bottom accentuates that effect. The overall feel is very old-school sporty. IMO, these styles are more flattering and stylish than quarter-zips you see from brands such as Peter Millar (slide four). Theirs are made from a smoother, silkier fabric and sit closer to the body. The effect is more "modern business casual" than "old school sporty." Due to the material and cut, the garment does not really have its own shape. As always, I strongly believe that you should dress how you want. If you are indeed a "modern business casual" guy who loves Hermes ties, Patagonia fleece vests, and Peter Millar quarter-zip sweaters, then have it. I only encourage people to think about dress as a kind of social language. And when you see something you like, consider more than the basic dimensions. People who like how the King of Spain looks in a quarter-zip will likely rush out to buy one without considering the more nuanced dimensions of clothing design, such as silhouette and texture, or where the designer draws their references. Such variations, while subtle, can have an outsized impact on what a garment telegraphs and how it looks on you.

derek guy

966,233 次观看 • 1 个月前

Peter Thiel's advice to early-stage startups: "One basic frame is that if you're starting a company, you always start small. So how do you get to monopoly when you're small? Answer, you start with a very small market. And the conventional business thing is always you want to go after really big markets. There are no big markets without lots of competition. You never want to go after big markets. You want to go after small markets. Facebook started with 10,000 people at Harvard. It was such a small market, it could not have been funded. It would not have been funded by investors if you'd actually pitched it. So it sort of bootstrapped the whole thing. It went from 0% to 60% market share in 10 days. That was actually a very auspicious start. Now, PayPal, we went after 30,000 power sellers on eBay. Again, sort of a subset of a subset of a subset of the payment space, but it has these very distinct, unique characteristics that made it a well-defined market. We got to about 30%, 35% market share in three months. Again, a very, very promising start. There was a tremendous amount that went wrong with all the clean tech companies in the last decade. And I think failure is always a little bit overrated because people can't learn much from failure. When you fail, you normally failed for multiple reasons. You failed for reasons A, B, C, D, E, and F. And maybe you think you failed because of A. Next time around, you'll fail for the other five reasons. So that's why I think we often make the mistake of... of overrating failure in various contexts. Cleantech failed for many different reasons. But one that I think is very important, and people haven't thought about enough, is that the markets were just way too big. Every PowerPoint presentation you saw in the period 2005 to 2008 started with, we are in the energy market. And this is a market that's in the hundreds of billions or trillions of dollars. And then it's a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of that market. And then you end up with a dynamic where you have to beat the other nine thin film solar panel companies. Then you have to beat the other 90 solar panel companies. Then you have to beat the wind companies. And then fracking comes out of right field. And China comes out of left field. And you're sort of like this minnow in this vast ocean. And there's just competition everywhere, most of it not even visible from the point at which you get started."

Founder Mode

39,870 次观看 • 6 个月前

I know a setup like this for many people would look cool and convenient but hear me out. I would only utilize something like this while parked in a camping area with other people. I would not use this by myself in the middle of the woods like this. I don’t feel they are safe and I’ll explain why. First off and most importantly, I don’t see a safe way to secure it. It’s all thin plastic sheeting meant to be waterproof but can be easily cut to gain access. If anyone wanted to cause harm or rob you, all they have to do is cut through the sheeting and they would have access to everything. It wouldn’t be hard to break into this. Then I look at how long it takes to setup, while it shows one person can set this up by themselves. Look at how long it takes to do this, it’s very impractical. I feel something like this that’s an add on to a vehicle should be much easier, like pushing a button and everything is pops out by itself. In an emergency I couldn’t imagine trying to fold things back in the right way while trying to escape. Could you imagine trying to outrun a bear in this only for it to be ripped off by tree branches cause you couldn’t fold it in time? The scenario I’m thinking of is what if I am being chased by a wild animal like a wolf or a bear. I couldn’t just hop in my Jeep and take off with this setup. Everything is folded out and tethered into the ground. It’s not like a traditional tent I could leave behind. If I was out camping with friends for a few days I think this could be ok. But doing a van life of camping for months at a time during the summer months wouldn’t be safe or practical as a solid unit like a standard RV. I wouldn’t be comfortable or safe in something like this.

SonnyBoy🇺🇸

409,219 次观看 • 2 个月前

Marc Andreessen explains the 3 Necessities for Start-up Success: "The general criteria for a successful high-tech startup, in my view, you see different sort of rules of thumb from different people. But the three big things you always come back to are, is there a big market? And by the way, that comes in two parts. Is there a big existing market that you think you can go after and sort of displace incumbents or do you believe there will be a new market that will be big? So big market. Is there a fundamental technology or economic change that causes you to basically justify having a new company? And that's really important. And the way I always think about that is, is there a 10X change happening in the technology landscape? Is something 10X faster or 10X cheaper or 10X better? And if it's not 10X, we as both VCs and entrepreneurs, we really have to ask ourselves like, is it really worth doing? Because it's really hard. I mean, it's really hard to start new companies. new companies generally shouldn't exist. Existing companies are usually pretty good at what they do. And so for a new company to exist, it not only has to like come in and go into business and bring a product to market, but it has to bring a product to market that's so much better than what already exists that it punches through the sort of status quo. And most customers in most markets are pretty happy buying from the current suppliers and so there has to be a real kind of edge on the thing and we look for that in either a technology change, usually a technology change or an economic change. which are often the same thing. And then the third is team. Is the team outstanding? And if you think about this as an entrepreneur, it becomes a question of the founding team. Some companies are solo founders and they can work, but generally most of us, like myself, we're human beings, we're mortal. You want to have a founding team of complementary skill sets. And so you want to have at least one super strong technologist, quite possibly more than one. Some of the best startups are actually more than one founding technologist and then it often helps to have somebody who's like a product or who's a market or sales person or has a sort of really good understanding of business on the team, certainly helps a lot. And so we sort of look at market, product, and team. And the reality is you need all three. I would say, interestingly, if you're going to compromise as an investor, if we're going to compromise on one of those, it would actually be the product. And the reason I say that is because a great market is a lot easier to make up for with iterative product execution than a poor market. Because the problem with a poor market, a small market, is even if you do a great job on the product, there just aren't that many customers. It's hard to ever get big."

Founder Mode

39,005 次观看 • 7 个月前

Vinod Khosla on the two most important things to get right when building a company The first thing for a startup to get right is make sure they’re inventing something radically different: “If you’re extrapolating the past to predict the future, the big companies do that very well. Intel knows how to go from a 15nm process to 10 to 7 to 5… Entrepreneurs fundamentally have to invent the future they want in a very different way, and you have to have conviction.” For this reason, Khosla Ventures tends not to invest in startups that are trying to do something “slightly better” (e.g. slightly lower cost, slightly more efficient, etc.) because the risk is too high. As Vinod explains: “If you’re fundamentally reinventing something and changing the assumptions, then you have a lot more time to get it right so there’s a lot more iterations you can do.” Which brings Vinod back to the second thing every founder has to get right: build the right team. “If you get the right team — it doesn’t even matter if you get the spec right — it will iterate to the right answer, and almost all good startups do that. This is why the team is more important than the market you pick.” However, you must make sure to foster a culture of debate and disagreeing: “If there’s a single founder and you’re dictating terms, you’re not going to evolve… You have to set up a culture so that it doesn’t matter if you’re senior or junior — you speak up if you have a concern or an idea. You’ll detect problems much earlier, and as a group you can evolve your direction.” Vinod points out that this is one of the reasons Andy Grove started the casual, dress-down culture of Silicon Valley in the 70s: “He wanted an engineer — whether they were junior or senior or a VP — to speak up and not be intimidated that the executives were all wearing ties and coats.” Source: South Park Commons (Apr 2025)

Startup Archive

20,015 次观看 • 2 个月前