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One of my tailors, Fred Nieddu, explained how he would create a pattern for a busty figure. From this, you can see why it's so hard for busty women to find clothes that fit well. The following pattern is for a bespoke suit jacket or sport coat. IG frednieddu

derek guy

1,494,886 subscribers

851,410 views • 2 years ago •via X (Twitter)

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derek guy2 years ago

One more video for those who find these things interesting. This is a donlon wedge, which is an adjustment on a bespoke pattern for a full belly. Better on jackets with flapped or jetted pockets, as the seam can show on patch pockets since patch pockets sit a little lower.

Manon2 years ago

I'm actually starting to become invested in the story the guy is telling in the back. So he has an electrical job to enable him to pursue things? Good for him.

Tina K.2 years ago

This is why I make my own clothes. If you want woven, natural fabrics and you're bigger than a size 8 you will never find fitted garments off the rack, you'll either have to pay someone to make them from a block of yr specific measurements or learn to make a block yourself + sew

Ardnas the Sage2 years ago

And why high fashion designers are still stuck on using exceptionally thin models. It’s just lack of talent. The biggest scam ever is the fashion industry convincing us we should all be that thin, or else we’re deviating from the norm.

Sarah Bowerman2 years ago

Then there is size fluctuation, different in breast size AND breast placement, shape & projection in different bras. C19 tailors worked to the shape of the controlled, corsetted body- which was more consistant- hence the amazing fitted riding & walking habits of the 1870s+

Deborah Witalis2 years ago

Also, the assumption that bigger breasts must mean you are a big boned gal with shoulders like a linebacker. Bra makers make this assumption, too. So hard to dress with a small frame but naturally large breasts.🤷🏻‍♀️

Nope.2 years ago

Also, “hippy” women. Back in the day, I had a 22inch waist. But I wasn’t stick straight. Finding pants that fit my hips but didn’t gap several inches in the waist was impossible.

Jonathan Craig2 years ago

I want to know why fashion designers don't simply work to solve the problem of needing darts by adopting the kind of mathematics which allows for complex curvature in 2-dimensional lines in order to compensate for increases in volume in a 3-dimensional space.

Eva Basilion2 years ago

Thank you for understanding.

Bird🦋2 years ago

Just the fact that regular sized ready-made womens jacket can't be tailored to fit well is annoying.

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I've told this to a few bespoke tailors. Your marketing budget can be zero. Grab an iPhone camera and just film yourself doing what you think is mundane—sewing a buttonhole, adjusting a pattern, basting a coat, or explaining some terminology. Explain what you're doing. You will be shocked at how many people find this sort of content interesting, even if it feels boring or obvious to you. Tom at Redmayne has been doing this sort of thing for 20 years and built a good business around it. IG redmayne1860

I've told this to a few bespoke tailors. Your marketing budget can be zero. Grab an iPhone camera and just film yourself doing what you think is mundane—sewing a buttonhole, adjusting a pattern, basting a coat, or explaining some terminology. Explain what you're doing. You will be shocked at how many people find this sort of content interesting, even if it feels boring or obvious to you. Tom at Redmayne has been doing this sort of thing for 20 years and built a good business around it. IG redmayne1860

derek guy

86,800 views • 8 months ago

What's a bespoke tailor, you ask? A bespoke tailor is someone who makes you a garment from scratch. They take your measurements, draft a pattern from scratch, and then use that pattern to create a custom garment that's refined through an iterative series of three fittings.

What's a bespoke tailor, you ask? A bespoke tailor is someone who makes you a garment from scratch. They take your measurements, draft a pattern from scratch, and then use that pattern to create a custom garment that's refined through an iterative series of three fittings.

derek guy

64,285 views • 1 year ago

If you use bespoke tailors, Maison Hellard is having a 30% off sale on fabric. All proceeds will go to La Maison des Femmes, a French care center for victims of domestic abuse. IMO, Hellard makes the best linens for sport coats. I think Mildmay in the Carnet de Voyage book is quite nice and would look great as a thee-roll-two jacket with patched hip pockets. Note, this is fabric only — not garments — so you will need to give this to a tailor. Most men need 4 meters for a suit and 2.5 meters for a sport coat, but it's always best to check with your tailor, as issues such as a body type, fabric pattern, and single- vs double-breasted can change these calculations. Check with Hellard first if you want to use this for a suit, as some of the fabrics are very soft and better suited for sport coats (in my opinion). They also have some nice linings that are mercifully not as wacky as what you find in most tailor's books, but still more interesting than a solid color. As always, this is not a paid tweet, as I don't do paid tweets. I simply think Hellard makes nice fabrics. I also like that the proceeds here are going to a good cause, so want to promote it.

If you use bespoke tailors, Maison Hellard is having a 30% off sale on fabric. All proceeds will go to La Maison des Femmes, a French care center for victims of domestic abuse. IMO, Hellard makes the best linens for sport coats. I think Mildmay in the Carnet de Voyage book is quite nice and would look great as a thee-roll-two jacket with patched hip pockets. Note, this is fabric only — not garments — so you will need to give this to a tailor. Most men need 4 meters for a suit and 2.5 meters for a sport coat, but it's always best to check with your tailor, as issues such as a body type, fabric pattern, and single- vs double-breasted can change these calculations. Check with Hellard first if you want to use this for a suit, as some of the fabrics are very soft and better suited for sport coats (in my opinion). They also have some nice linings that are mercifully not as wacky as what you find in most tailor's books, but still more interesting than a solid color. As always, this is not a paid tweet, as I don't do paid tweets. I simply think Hellard makes nice fabrics. I also like that the proceeds here are going to a good cause, so want to promote it.

derek guy

71,323 views • 6 months ago

shammies i don't think he has to hide the gut, but if he wanted to, he could get a bespoke suit jacket or sport coat made with something called the donlon wedge. this allows the jacket to be fastened while smoothly laying over the belly, rather kicking out

shammies i don't think he has to hide the gut, but if he wanted to, he could get a bespoke suit jacket or sport coat made with something called the donlon wedge. this allows the jacket to be fastened while smoothly laying over the belly, rather kicking out

derek guy

126,297 views • 1 year ago

Darts are small, stitched down folds that give a garment shape. They are typically used on areas that need to hug the curves of a body, such as the waist of a jacket or above the seat on a pair of trousers. Unfortunately, darts can also distort a pattern. This is especially obvious on chalkstripes and pinstripes, since the pattern should match across the body and pockets. Here are four ways tailors have dealt with this issue: — Steed: Place the dart between the stripes and carefully shape it so that the lines move out where they need, matching the pockets. (IG steedtailors) — Leonard Logsdail: Place the dart along the stripe. This means one of the stripes suddenly disappears around the chest, but the pattern still matches across the pockets. IMO, this is fine on fine stripes, but can be jarring on very bold stripes. Looks good here though. (IG leonardlogsdail) — Sartoria Raffaniello: Place the dart between two of the stripes, so you push them together. This will make two of the stripes converge like an arrowhead point. (IG sartoria_raffaniello) — Jerry Xu: Place the dart between two stripes, but make them converge into a single stripe, allowing you to match the pattern across the pockets. (IG jerrysuit163) — Tailor CAID: Do away with the front dart entirely. This results in straighter sides, which won't hug your waist, but you preserve the pattern completely. Also, a mark of classic American style. (IG tailorcaid) — Liverano & Liverano: Replace the front dart with a hidden underarm dart. This preserves the pattern for the area that people see and allows you to get some waist shaping. (IG liveranoandliverano) — Salve Studios: Next level. Move the pattern! This is clearly too laborious for most tailoring commissions, but nice to see this kind of craft. (IG salve.studios)

Darts are small, stitched down folds that give a garment shape. They are typically used on areas that need to hug the curves of a body, such as the waist of a jacket or above the seat on a pair of trousers. Unfortunately, darts can also distort a pattern. This is especially obvious on chalkstripes and pinstripes, since the pattern should match across the body and pockets. Here are four ways tailors have dealt with this issue: — Steed: Place the dart between the stripes and carefully shape it so that the lines move out where they need, matching the pockets. (IG steedtailors) — Leonard Logsdail: Place the dart along the stripe. This means one of the stripes suddenly disappears around the chest, but the pattern still matches across the pockets. IMO, this is fine on fine stripes, but can be jarring on very bold stripes. Looks good here though. (IG leonardlogsdail) — Sartoria Raffaniello: Place the dart between two of the stripes, so you push them together. This will make two of the stripes converge like an arrowhead point. (IG sartoria_raffaniello) — Jerry Xu: Place the dart between two stripes, but make them converge into a single stripe, allowing you to match the pattern across the pockets. (IG jerrysuit163) — Tailor CAID: Do away with the front dart entirely. This results in straighter sides, which won't hug your waist, but you preserve the pattern completely. Also, a mark of classic American style. (IG tailorcaid) — Liverano & Liverano: Replace the front dart with a hidden underarm dart. This preserves the pattern for the area that people see and allows you to get some waist shaping. (IG liveranoandliverano) — Salve Studios: Next level. Move the pattern! This is clearly too laborious for most tailoring commissions, but nice to see this kind of craft. (IG salve.studios)

derek guy

63,107 views • 7 months ago

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I don't know anything about either of these men, but I don't think it's true that Pierre Poilievre can't afford a bespoke suit. I can show you. If you zoom in on the Poilievre's suit, you can see subtle dimples along the edge of his lapel. These dimples indicate that the suit was handmade using something called a pick stitch. That's where the tailor finishes the edge by compressing multiple layers of cloth using just a needle and thread, so it doesn't roll to the wrong side. This sort of finishing is only see on suits that cost at least four figures. Notably, ready-to-wear suits — including those from luxury lines such as Cucinelli — still use a machine-finished edge, often executed with an AMF or Complett machine. In the last slide, I've attached a video from Redmayne, a British bespoke tailoring house, that demonstrates the difference between these two finishing techniques. This very strongly suggests that Poilievre's suits are benchmade, which is to say hand tailored. I don't think clothes have anything to do with a person's character or leadership skills. So I'm not sure where you're drawing this connection. I was simply remarking on how posture changes how clothes fit. Poilievre appears to use a custom tailor who produces benchmade suits. His tailor produces clothes for his natural build, but he stands overly erect when he knows people are looking at him, thus spoiling the fit that his tailor gives him.

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A bit niche, but for people who love tailoring, Stephen Hitchcock here shows how to make a donlon wedge adjustment on a bespoke overcoat. This creates a three dimensional shape so the coat hangs cleanly over a fuller belly. Only possible in bespoke. IG stevenhitchcockbespoke

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