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One of my tailors, Fred Nieddu, explained how he would create a pattern for a busty figure. From this, you can see why it's so hard for busty women to find clothes that fit well. The following pattern is for a bespoke suit jacket or sport coat. IG frednieddu

derek guy

1,494,886 subscribers

851,410 просмотров • 2 лет назад •via X (Twitter)

Здоровье и велнес Образование Искусство

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Комментарии: 10

Фото профиля derek guy

derek guy2 лет назад

One more video for those who find these things interesting. This is a donlon wedge, which is an adjustment on a bespoke pattern for a full belly. Better on jackets with flapped or jetted pockets, as the seam can show on patch pockets since patch pockets sit a little lower.

Фото профиля Manon

Manon2 лет назад

I'm actually starting to become invested in the story the guy is telling in the back. So he has an electrical job to enable him to pursue things? Good for him.

Фото профиля Tina K.

Tina K.2 лет назад

This is why I make my own clothes. If you want woven, natural fabrics and you're bigger than a size 8 you will never find fitted garments off the rack, you'll either have to pay someone to make them from a block of yr specific measurements or learn to make a block yourself + sew

Фото профиля Ardnas the Sage

Ardnas the Sage2 лет назад

And why high fashion designers are still stuck on using exceptionally thin models. It’s just lack of talent. The biggest scam ever is the fashion industry convincing us we should all be that thin, or else we’re deviating from the norm.

Фото профиля Sarah Bowerman

Sarah Bowerman2 лет назад

Then there is size fluctuation, different in breast size AND breast placement, shape & projection in different bras. C19 tailors worked to the shape of the controlled, corsetted body- which was more consistant- hence the amazing fitted riding & walking habits of the 1870s+

Фото профиля Deborah Witalis

Deborah Witalis2 лет назад

Also, the assumption that bigger breasts must mean you are a big boned gal with shoulders like a linebacker. Bra makers make this assumption, too. So hard to dress with a small frame but naturally large breasts.🤷🏻‍♀️

Фото профиля Nope.

Nope.2 лет назад

Also, “hippy” women. Back in the day, I had a 22inch waist. But I wasn’t stick straight. Finding pants that fit my hips but didn’t gap several inches in the waist was impossible.

Фото профиля Jonathan Craig

Jonathan Craig2 лет назад

I want to know why fashion designers don't simply work to solve the problem of needing darts by adopting the kind of mathematics which allows for complex curvature in 2-dimensional lines in order to compensate for increases in volume in a 3-dimensional space.

Фото профиля Eva Basilion

Eva Basilion2 лет назад

Thank you for understanding.

Фото профиля Bird🦋

Bird🦋2 лет назад

Just the fact that regular sized ready-made womens jacket can't be tailored to fit well is annoying.

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I've told this to a few bespoke tailors. Your marketing budget can be zero. Grab an iPhone camera and just film yourself doing what you think is mundane—sewing a buttonhole, adjusting a pattern, basting a coat, or explaining some terminology. Explain what you're doing. You will be shocked at how many people find this sort of content interesting, even if it feels boring or obvious to you. Tom at Redmayne has been doing this sort of thing for 20 years and built a good business around it. IG redmayne1860

I've told this to a few bespoke tailors. Your marketing budget can be zero. Grab an iPhone camera and just film yourself doing what you think is mundane—sewing a buttonhole, adjusting a pattern, basting a coat, or explaining some terminology. Explain what you're doing. You will be shocked at how many people find this sort of content interesting, even if it feels boring or obvious to you. Tom at Redmayne has been doing this sort of thing for 20 years and built a good business around it. IG redmayne1860

derek guy

86,800 просмотров • 10 месяцев назад

A good travel tip from Tom at Redmayne. Tom is a bespoke tailor who travels for trunk shows, and thus packs a lot of high-end garments for fittings. FWIW, this is also how bespoke tailors ship finished garments to customers. IG redmayne1860

A good travel tip from Tom at Redmayne. Tom is a bespoke tailor who travels for trunk shows, and thus packs a lot of high-end garments for fittings. FWIW, this is also how bespoke tailors ship finished garments to customers. IG redmayne1860

derek guy

209,428 просмотров • 2 лет назад

If you use bespoke tailors, Maison Hellard is having a 30% off sale on fabric. All proceeds will go to La Maison des Femmes, a French care center for victims of domestic abuse. IMO, Hellard makes the best linens for sport coats. I think Mildmay in the Carnet de Voyage book is quite nice and would look great as a thee-roll-two jacket with patched hip pockets. Note, this is fabric only — not garments — so you will need to give this to a tailor. Most men need 4 meters for a suit and 2.5 meters for a sport coat, but it's always best to check with your tailor, as issues such as a body type, fabric pattern, and single- vs double-breasted can change these calculations. Check with Hellard first if you want to use this for a suit, as some of the fabrics are very soft and better suited for sport coats (in my opinion). They also have some nice linings that are mercifully not as wacky as what you find in most tailor's books, but still more interesting than a solid color. As always, this is not a paid tweet, as I don't do paid tweets. I simply think Hellard makes nice fabrics. I also like that the proceeds here are going to a good cause, so want to promote it.

If you use bespoke tailors, Maison Hellard is having a 30% off sale on fabric. All proceeds will go to La Maison des Femmes, a French care center for victims of domestic abuse. IMO, Hellard makes the best linens for sport coats. I think Mildmay in the Carnet de Voyage book is quite nice and would look great as a thee-roll-two jacket with patched hip pockets. Note, this is fabric only — not garments — so you will need to give this to a tailor. Most men need 4 meters for a suit and 2.5 meters for a sport coat, but it's always best to check with your tailor, as issues such as a body type, fabric pattern, and single- vs double-breasted can change these calculations. Check with Hellard first if you want to use this for a suit, as some of the fabrics are very soft and better suited for sport coats (in my opinion). They also have some nice linings that are mercifully not as wacky as what you find in most tailor's books, but still more interesting than a solid color. As always, this is not a paid tweet, as I don't do paid tweets. I simply think Hellard makes nice fabrics. I also like that the proceeds here are going to a good cause, so want to promote it.

derek guy

71,323 просмотров • 8 месяцев назад

I think Hasan could use a tailor, but I disagree with your reaction to that specific suit. My impression is that Hasan's jackets don't fit as well as they could because he has a very broad chest. In the first photo, you can see how the jacket's collar isn't really seated correctly, which is causing the lapels to spread apart. In the past, I've talked about a collar gap, where the back of the jacket's collar lifts from the person's neck. This can be easier to spot in two-dimensional images. But a correctly seated collar isn't just about that one part — it's about the totality of the collar. In the second slide, you can see photos of four men with similarly broad chests. None of the men featured in this tweet have a collar gap. But notice how, in the second slide, the jacket collars sit better on all four men. They come up on the wearers. Edwin DeBoise, founder of the bespoke tailoring house Steed, once explained this to me as an issue of crooking and straightening a jacket. I should warn ahead of time: this issue is controversial among tailors and notoriously difficult to explain even in person, let alone online. The issue revolves around something called the neck point, where the jacket's shoulder seam meets the collar. When drafting a pattern, a tailor can adjust the neck point and shoulder line so the collar sits correctly for the person's build and posture. In the video featuring Edwin, you can see how a jacket can be thrown off depending on whether the person has a prominent chest and erect posture or a small chest and stands very stooped. You can try this at home. Put on a tailored jacket (suit jacket or sport coat) and throw your chest out like you're very proud. This will cause the jacket to be thrown off your shoulders. This is similar to what's happening on Hasan's jackets. To fix this, the tailor will need to adjust the neck point, which can only be done during the pattern drafting stage. You can't adjust it in ready-to-wear. Many made-to-measure programs, possibly even most, can't accommodate this. In the fourth and final slide, you can see Hasan in a Zhongshan suit, which is a traditional Chinese garment modeled after something Sun Yat-sen used to wear (which, in turn, is modeled after gakurans, a Japanese school uniform). You can see this suit does not have this problem. Whatever you may think of the style, it's well tailored in a technical sense. If the jacket's neck point were incorrectly placed, you would see the top few buttons starting to pull. Instead, the body fits very cleanly and the front-back balance (how the jacket hangs from the shoulders when seen from the side), seems to be correct. Many people nowadays use the term "tailor" to mean all sorts of things. For instance, if they see trousers they think are too baggy, they will often say something like "those pants need to be tailored." All they are really saying is "that garment needs to be slimmed down." This is partly because their experience with tailoring is limited to alterations and they are mostly buying ready-to-wear. But tailoring isn't just about slimming things down. Something can fit quite full and still be made correctly. IMO, it's useful to separate out the styling of a garment from its technical construction/ fit.

I think Hasan could use a tailor, but I disagree with your reaction to that specific suit. My impression is that Hasan's jackets don't fit as well as they could because he has a very broad chest. In the first photo, you can see how the jacket's collar isn't really seated correctly, which is causing the lapels to spread apart. In the past, I've talked about a collar gap, where the back of the jacket's collar lifts from the person's neck. This can be easier to spot in two-dimensional images. But a correctly seated collar isn't just about that one part — it's about the totality of the collar. In the second slide, you can see photos of four men with similarly broad chests. None of the men featured in this tweet have a collar gap. But notice how, in the second slide, the jacket collars sit better on all four men. They come up on the wearers. Edwin DeBoise, founder of the bespoke tailoring house Steed, once explained this to me as an issue of crooking and straightening a jacket. I should warn ahead of time: this issue is controversial among tailors and notoriously difficult to explain even in person, let alone online. The issue revolves around something called the neck point, where the jacket's shoulder seam meets the collar. When drafting a pattern, a tailor can adjust the neck point and shoulder line so the collar sits correctly for the person's build and posture. In the video featuring Edwin, you can see how a jacket can be thrown off depending on whether the person has a prominent chest and erect posture or a small chest and stands very stooped. You can try this at home. Put on a tailored jacket (suit jacket or sport coat) and throw your chest out like you're very proud. This will cause the jacket to be thrown off your shoulders. This is similar to what's happening on Hasan's jackets. To fix this, the tailor will need to adjust the neck point, which can only be done during the pattern drafting stage. You can't adjust it in ready-to-wear. Many made-to-measure programs, possibly even most, can't accommodate this. In the fourth and final slide, you can see Hasan in a Zhongshan suit, which is a traditional Chinese garment modeled after something Sun Yat-sen used to wear (which, in turn, is modeled after gakurans, a Japanese school uniform). You can see this suit does not have this problem. Whatever you may think of the style, it's well tailored in a technical sense. If the jacket's neck point were incorrectly placed, you would see the top few buttons starting to pull. Instead, the body fits very cleanly and the front-back balance (how the jacket hangs from the shoulders when seen from the side), seems to be correct. Many people nowadays use the term "tailor" to mean all sorts of things. For instance, if they see trousers they think are too baggy, they will often say something like "those pants need to be tailored." All they are really saying is "that garment needs to be slimmed down." This is partly because their experience with tailoring is limited to alterations and they are mostly buying ready-to-wear. But tailoring isn't just about slimming things down. Something can fit quite full and still be made correctly. IMO, it's useful to separate out the styling of a garment from its technical construction/ fit.

derek guy

1,328,427 просмотров • 1 день назад

Darts are small, stitched down folds that give a garment shape. They are typically used on areas that need to hug the curves of a body, such as the waist of a jacket or above the seat on a pair of trousers. Unfortunately, darts can also distort a pattern. This is especially obvious on chalkstripes and pinstripes, since the pattern should match across the body and pockets. Here are four ways tailors have dealt with this issue: — Steed: Place the dart between the stripes and carefully shape it so that the lines move out where they need, matching the pockets. (IG steedtailors) — Leonard Logsdail: Place the dart along the stripe. This means one of the stripes suddenly disappears around the chest, but the pattern still matches across the pockets. IMO, this is fine on fine stripes, but can be jarring on very bold stripes. Looks good here though. (IG leonardlogsdail) — Sartoria Raffaniello: Place the dart between two of the stripes, so you push them together. This will make two of the stripes converge like an arrowhead point. (IG sartoria_raffaniello) — Jerry Xu: Place the dart between two stripes, but make them converge into a single stripe, allowing you to match the pattern across the pockets. (IG jerrysuit163) — Tailor CAID: Do away with the front dart entirely. This results in straighter sides, which won't hug your waist, but you preserve the pattern completely. Also, a mark of classic American style. (IG tailorcaid) — Liverano & Liverano: Replace the front dart with a hidden underarm dart. This preserves the pattern for the area that people see and allows you to get some waist shaping. (IG liveranoandliverano) — Salve Studios: Next level. Move the pattern! This is clearly too laborious for most tailoring commissions, but nice to see this kind of craft. (IG salve.studios)

Darts are small, stitched down folds that give a garment shape. They are typically used on areas that need to hug the curves of a body, such as the waist of a jacket or above the seat on a pair of trousers. Unfortunately, darts can also distort a pattern. This is especially obvious on chalkstripes and pinstripes, since the pattern should match across the body and pockets. Here are four ways tailors have dealt with this issue: — Steed: Place the dart between the stripes and carefully shape it so that the lines move out where they need, matching the pockets. (IG steedtailors) — Leonard Logsdail: Place the dart along the stripe. This means one of the stripes suddenly disappears around the chest, but the pattern still matches across the pockets. IMO, this is fine on fine stripes, but can be jarring on very bold stripes. Looks good here though. (IG leonardlogsdail) — Sartoria Raffaniello: Place the dart between two of the stripes, so you push them together. This will make two of the stripes converge like an arrowhead point. (IG sartoria_raffaniello) — Jerry Xu: Place the dart between two stripes, but make them converge into a single stripe, allowing you to match the pattern across the pockets. (IG jerrysuit163) — Tailor CAID: Do away with the front dart entirely. This results in straighter sides, which won't hug your waist, but you preserve the pattern completely. Also, a mark of classic American style. (IG tailorcaid) — Liverano & Liverano: Replace the front dart with a hidden underarm dart. This preserves the pattern for the area that people see and allows you to get some waist shaping. (IG liveranoandliverano) — Salve Studios: Next level. Move the pattern! This is clearly too laborious for most tailoring commissions, but nice to see this kind of craft. (IG salve.studios)

derek guy

63,107 просмотров • 8 месяцев назад

One of the most common swing tendencies in golf FIXED by doing this drill... The sway & tilt pattern If you suffer from this pattern, do this drill 50 times a day for a week.

One of the most common swing tendencies in golf FIXED by doing this drill... The sway & tilt pattern If you suffer from this pattern, do this drill 50 times a day for a week.

Ryan Mouque

176,324 просмотров • 1 год назад

I don't know anything about either of these men, but I don't think it's true that Pierre Poilievre can't afford a bespoke suit. I can show you. If you zoom in on the Poilievre's suit, you can see subtle dimples along the edge of his lapel. These dimples indicate that the suit was handmade using something called a pick stitch. That's where the tailor finishes the edge by compressing multiple layers of cloth using just a needle and thread, so it doesn't roll to the wrong side. This sort of finishing is only see on suits that cost at least four figures. Notably, ready-to-wear suits — including those from luxury lines such as Cucinelli — still use a machine-finished edge, often executed with an AMF or Complett machine. In the last slide, I've attached a video from Redmayne, a British bespoke tailoring house, that demonstrates the difference between these two finishing techniques. This very strongly suggests that Poilievre's suits are benchmade, which is to say hand tailored. I don't think clothes have anything to do with a person's character or leadership skills. So I'm not sure where you're drawing this connection. I was simply remarking on how posture changes how clothes fit. Poilievre appears to use a custom tailor who produces benchmade suits. His tailor produces clothes for his natural build, but he stands overly erect when he knows people are looking at him, thus spoiling the fit that his tailor gives him.

I don't know anything about either of these men, but I don't think it's true that Pierre Poilievre can't afford a bespoke suit. I can show you. If you zoom in on the Poilievre's suit, you can see subtle dimples along the edge of his lapel. These dimples indicate that the suit was handmade using something called a pick stitch. That's where the tailor finishes the edge by compressing multiple layers of cloth using just a needle and thread, so it doesn't roll to the wrong side. This sort of finishing is only see on suits that cost at least four figures. Notably, ready-to-wear suits — including those from luxury lines such as Cucinelli — still use a machine-finished edge, often executed with an AMF or Complett machine. In the last slide, I've attached a video from Redmayne, a British bespoke tailoring house, that demonstrates the difference between these two finishing techniques. This very strongly suggests that Poilievre's suits are benchmade, which is to say hand tailored. I don't think clothes have anything to do with a person's character or leadership skills. So I'm not sure where you're drawing this connection. I was simply remarking on how posture changes how clothes fit. Poilievre appears to use a custom tailor who produces benchmade suits. His tailor produces clothes for his natural build, but he stands overly erect when he knows people are looking at him, thus spoiling the fit that his tailor gives him.

derek guy

218,654 просмотров • 6 месяцев назад

Real corsets are comfortable! How? Because they fit. A custom corset is fitted to the body in a process that can take over 100 hours of sewing. The lacing pattern allows for adjustments each time it's worn, ensuring comfort. #fyp #grwm #sewingcorsets #cosplay #chimeracostumes

Real corsets are comfortable! How? Because they fit. A custom corset is fitted to the body in a process that can take over 100 hours of sewing. The lacing pattern allows for adjustments each time it's worn, ensuring comfort. #fyp #grwm #sewingcorsets #cosplay #chimeracostumes

Chimera Costumes | Seamstress

96,868 просмотров • 5 месяцев назад

Pattern adjustments to this batch of hoodies went SUPER WELL This is a standard small. My chest is 34" and I'm 5'3" For StephieDeer

Pattern adjustments to this batch of hoodies went SUPER WELL This is a standard small. My chest is 34" and I'm 5'3" For StephieDeer

Tail Ends 🩲 Sewing

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Most teams treat passing drills like a chore. Coaches need just one simple pattern that their players can do at pace. Is this the one for you?

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63,312 просмотров • 6 месяцев назад

Arlene Dickinson: "It was so obvious to me once I started to put them together that there is a pattern here that is very troubling, that is very evident, that there are people trying hard to create narrative for separatism, a method for separatism."

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Scott Robertson

34,059 просмотров • 3 месяцев назад

A bit niche, but for people who love tailoring, Stephen Hitchcock here shows how to make a donlon wedge adjustment on a bespoke overcoat. This creates a three dimensional shape so the coat hangs cleanly over a fuller belly. Only possible in bespoke. IG stevenhitchcockbespoke

A bit niche, but for people who love tailoring, Stephen Hitchcock here shows how to make a donlon wedge adjustment on a bespoke overcoat. This creates a three dimensional shape so the coat hangs cleanly over a fuller belly. Only possible in bespoke. IG stevenhitchcockbespoke

derek guy

155,050 просмотров • 1 месяц назад

Q: "Do you think that Donald Trump should be deposed by this committee?" Hillary Clinton: "Absolutely…Donald Trump has been held civilly liable for sexual assault by a jury of his peers…That is behavior that fits a pattern if one were looking for a pattern."

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CSPAN

1,644,900 просмотров • 5 месяцев назад

Q: "Do you think that Donald Trump should be deposed by this committee?" Hillary Clinton: "Absolutely…Donald Trump has been held civilly liable for sexual assault by a jury of his peers…That is behavior that fits a pattern if one were looking for a pattern."

Q: "Do you think that Donald Trump should be deposed by this committee?" Hillary Clinton: "Absolutely…Donald Trump has been held civilly liable for sexual assault by a jury of his peers…That is behavior that fits a pattern if one were looking for a pattern."

unusual_whales

400,170 просмотров • 5 месяцев назад

US to lunch a nuke! To be stopped by something or someone not of this world! Anyone else noticing a pattern? People so badly are hoping for the absolute worst! Why?

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Anttsinc

24,818 просмотров • 5 месяцев назад

I cannot tell y'all how many requests we have received for this camo pattern since it was released! So, it's my pleasure to introduce to you: X81 Gooberhead camo!! Helaphant made this one for American Lictor and we turned it into a limited run of mags!

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Cultivated Laser

16,129 просмотров • 24 дней назад

This is the cut that professional athletes, such as those in the NHL, should wear. This cut can only be achieved by drafting the pattern from scratch, rather than adjusting from a block (unless the company has a block built for pro athletes, which I've yet to see). IG bntailor

This is the cut that professional athletes, such as those in the NHL, should wear. This cut can only be achieved by drafting the pattern from scratch, rather than adjusting from a block (unless the company has a block built for pro athletes, which I've yet to see). IG bntailor

derek guy

551,905 просмотров • 3 месяцев назад

Tony Robbins explains why pattern recognition is one of the most powerful skills for success “You’ve got to become a student of history. There are patterns that are so clear. If you can recognize patterns, you can learn quickly and you won’t live in fear because it won’t feel like random things are happening to you” “You have to look at the people who actually succeeded and find out what happened in their lives, what they went through to create that pattern. That’s what I did early on. I went and studied them”

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Mikli

191,613 просмотров • 5 месяцев назад

This public figure posted this for the world to see for one reason: attention. Now he wants more. Imagine how the babies feel now that they have been ripped from the arms of a nurturing mother.

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Lauren Witzke

95,251 просмотров • 3 лет назад

Asmongold roasts Hasan’s drip “Why does he spend so much money on this bs man..so awful..this looks like a trench coat from WW1..for a guy that cares a lot about fashion, I expect more” “It’s like, he’s a big guy but he somehow always manages to get clothes that are too big for him” “Last time that he had a good one, was at the streamer awards..he’s reworn that 4 or 5 times now”

Asmongold roasts Hasan’s drip “Why does he spend so much money on this bs man..so awful..this looks like a trench coat from WW1..for a guy that cares a lot about fashion, I expect more” “It’s like, he’s a big guy but he somehow always manages to get clothes that are too big for him” “Last time that he had a good one, was at the streamer awards..he’s reworn that 4 or 5 times now”

yeet

57,173 просмотров • 4 месяцев назад