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There are many techniques for how to pack tailored garments, but they all follow the same principles: try to protect the face side of the fabric and avoid hard creases. Some involve turning the jacket inside out and tucking one shoulder into the other. YT PermanentStyleLondon

49,558 görüntüleme • 1 yıl önce •via X (Twitter)

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derek guy1 yıl önce

Here is a photo of Biden and Trudeau. Notice the puckering on Biden's right shoulder (near the armhole). This is again the result of steam. Trudeau's suit doesn't have this problem. My guess is that one of Biden's aides steamed his suit before he made this appearance.

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derek guy1 yıl önce

The photos above show what can happen on a high-end suit—one that's fully canvassed and made with pad stitching and ironwork. Suit below is cheaper, so the front has been fused (i.e., glued). Someone ran steam across it and the fusing has now delaminated, hence the bubbling.

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derek guy1 yıl önce

When I see steam damage, it's often something like this: puckering along the lapel and the wavy lines along the jets. Since tailored jackets are made from many layers of material plus stitching, steam can make these materials expand and contract at different rates.

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derek guy1 yıl önce

To properly get wrinkles out of a suit jacket or sport coat, you need to go back to how that woman curled her hair. This is done through heat, steam, and *pressure.* That is, a professional dry cleaner or tailor needs to press your jacket, like this.

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derek guy1 yıl önce

I don't recommend trying this at home. Pressing a jacket is not the same as ironing your shirt; it requires special equipment and years of training. OK, but it's unrealistic to send your garment to a high-end dry cleaner after every wear. So what to do?

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derek guy1 yıl önce

The first step is to buy better clothes. In tailoring, the term high-twist refers to yarns that have been given an extra twist during spinning process. This gives the yarn some strength and spring-back quality. High-twist yarns are often used to make tropical wools, like this:

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Here are some garments made from Draper's Ascot four-ply wool fabrics. You could scrunch these trousers into a ball, throw them into your suitcase, and leave them for a week. When you take them out, they will spring back to their regular pressed shape—including the front crease

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derek guy1 yıl önce

A heavier flannel, such as a 14oz woolen flannel, will also be naturally resistant to wrinkling. This doesn't wrinkle for the same reason why a Pendleton blanket doesn't wrinkle—it's too thick and heavy.

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derek guy1 yıl önce

So part of this is about knowing a bit about fabrics. Certain things lend their own wrinkle resistance: heavier material, high-twist yarn, and certain weaves (e.g., cavalry twill or whipcord). This cavalry twill suit will shed wrinkles if you hang it up for a day or two.

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derek guy1 yıl önce

OK, you have the right suit. Now how do you pack it? Here's Tom Mahon, former cutter at Anderson & Sheppard, founder of English Cut, and now cutter at Redmayne. As a bespoke tailor, he packs a lot of suits for fittings, and they have to arrive wrinkle-free IG redmayne1860

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derek guy1 yıl önce

I've explained the Gold Standard for how to care for a suit, but you will need to make your own determinations. If you absolutely must steam a suit, be judicious. Understand the risks. Try to stay away from seams, shoulders, upper chest, and lapels, where there's a lot of shaping

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derek guy1 yıl önce

Will gently steaming your garment once ruin it? Prob not. Will steaming it a lot and often do damage over time? Possibly. IMO, the key is to develop an eye for what constitutes quality tailoring, so you can assess the risks for yourself.

Proper Cloth profil fotoğrafı
Proper Cloth1 yıl önce

Your next warm, workhorse shirt is here. The Japanese Low Twist is a rugged, heavyweight fabric worn alone or as a chore coat. Shop now.

Becky profil fotoğrafı
Becky1 yıl önce

This is a great guide to pack the suitcase

a travesty in 9 parts profil fotoğrafı
a travesty in 9 parts1 yıl önce

this is the one i use and it works great!

Marc is me profil fotoğrafı
Marc is me1 yıl önce

This was my technique when I spent a lot of time travelling for work. I found it useful to put a pair of socks where the jacket collar is folded to avoid a back-crease.

Philly See profil fotoğrafı
Philly See1 yıl önce

The inside out jacket is my move. I then fold the pants around the shirts (instead of using the paper - but that’s a great solution)

Rob Ryan profil fotoğrafı
Rob Ryan1 yıl önce

This is the method of packing a suit I learned from Natale's Men's Clothier years ago. Used countless times for work travel; it’s so easy and seamless. I make sure the suit or sport coat is the last thing to pack, and first to be hung up.

William Gill🌻 profil fotoğrafı
William Gill🌻1 yıl önce

I do this, but after turning the jacket inside out and tucking the shoulders, I place it inside a plastic dry cleaner bag and then fold. The plastic bag traps air and prevents hard creases. Works like a charm.

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