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Kevin → Plant Daddy

@KevinEspiritu • 68,027 subscribers

I like growing plants, businesses, and the thing I call my self | founder / ceo @epicgardening, seeds @botanicalseeds, artist @rampfade, farming @seedscollect

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Leaving the garden center buying exactly what I came for and nothing more

Leaving the garden center buying exactly what I came for and nothing more

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I've always loved growing onions, so every year I try to perfect my method further... Onions are a biennial - in year one, they form a huge bulb and in year two they flower. We just harvest them in year one so most people never see them bloom (they're beautiful) The "layers of an onion" are really just the base of each leaf...so the more leaves you grow and the healthier those leaves are = the bigger the final bulb will be Of course, there is the particular onion cultivar's genetic maximum, but few of us are ever reaching that point when growing them out The root systems of an onion plant are quite shallow, meaning to leafmaxx an onion you need to amend the soil with nitrogen early on in the plant's life, and close to the soil surface That's why this trenching method works so well. A fertilized trench of soil in between two rows of onions allows for easy access of the key macronutrient they need to grow huge, healthy leaves BTW - the bulbing process is triggered by day length, not by raw time elapsed since planting out. There are long-day, intermediate, and short-day onions Counterintuitively, long-day onions are best grown in northern latitudes as they need LONGER summer days to trigger bulbing. In my climate of San Diego, I have to grow short-day onions as I'm closer to the equator They're ready to harvest when the neck of the plant flops. Pull them out of the ground (highly satisfying) and let them cure in a cool, dry place for a few days. Once the neck is fully dry, clip it off, cut off the roots, and put them in long-term storage

Kevin → Plant Daddy

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