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One of my tailors, Fred Nieddu, explained how he would create a pattern for a busty figure. From this, you can see why it's so hard for busty women to find clothes that fit well. The following pattern is for a bespoke suit jacket or sport coat. IG frednieddu

851,410 Aufrufe • vor 2 Jahren •via X (Twitter)

10 Kommentare

Profilbild von derek guy
derek guyvor 2 Jahren

One more video for those who find these things interesting. This is a donlon wedge, which is an adjustment on a bespoke pattern for a full belly. Better on jackets with flapped or jetted pockets, as the seam can show on patch pockets since patch pockets sit a little lower.

Profilbild von Manon
Manonvor 2 Jahren

I'm actually starting to become invested in the story the guy is telling in the back. So he has an electrical job to enable him to pursue things? Good for him.

Profilbild von Tina K.
Tina K.vor 2 Jahren

This is why I make my own clothes. If you want woven, natural fabrics and you're bigger than a size 8 you will never find fitted garments off the rack, you'll either have to pay someone to make them from a block of yr specific measurements or learn to make a block yourself + sew

Profilbild von Ardnas the Sage
Ardnas the Sagevor 2 Jahren

And why high fashion designers are still stuck on using exceptionally thin models. It’s just lack of talent. The biggest scam ever is the fashion industry convincing us we should all be that thin, or else we’re deviating from the norm.

Profilbild von Sarah Bowerman
Sarah Bowermanvor 2 Jahren

Then there is size fluctuation, different in breast size AND breast placement, shape & projection in different bras. C19 tailors worked to the shape of the controlled, corsetted body- which was more consistant- hence the amazing fitted riding & walking habits of the 1870s+

Profilbild von Deborah Witalis
Deborah Witalisvor 2 Jahren

Also, the assumption that bigger breasts must mean you are a big boned gal with shoulders like a linebacker. Bra makers make this assumption, too. So hard to dress with a small frame but naturally large breasts.🤷🏻‍♀️

Profilbild von Nope.
Nope.vor 2 Jahren

Also, “hippy” women. Back in the day, I had a 22inch waist. But I wasn’t stick straight. Finding pants that fit my hips but didn’t gap several inches in the waist was impossible.

Profilbild von Jonathan Craig
Jonathan Craigvor 2 Jahren

I want to know why fashion designers don't simply work to solve the problem of needing darts by adopting the kind of mathematics which allows for complex curvature in 2-dimensional lines in order to compensate for increases in volume in a 3-dimensional space.

Profilbild von Eva Basilion
Eva Basilionvor 2 Jahren

Thank you for understanding.

Profilbild von Bird🦋
Bird🦋vor 2 Jahren

Just the fact that regular sized ready-made womens jacket can't be tailored to fit well is annoying.

Ähnliche Videos

Darts are small, stitched down folds that give a garment shape. They are typically used on areas that need to hug the curves of a body, such as the waist of a jacket or above the seat on a pair of trousers. Unfortunately, darts can also distort a pattern. This is especially obvious on chalkstripes and pinstripes, since the pattern should match across the body and pockets. Here are four ways tailors have dealt with this issue: — Steed: Place the dart between the stripes and carefully shape it so that the lines move out where they need, matching the pockets. (IG steedtailors) — Leonard Logsdail: Place the dart along the stripe. This means one of the stripes suddenly disappears around the chest, but the pattern still matches across the pockets. IMO, this is fine on fine stripes, but can be jarring on very bold stripes. Looks good here though. (IG leonardlogsdail) — Sartoria Raffaniello: Place the dart between two of the stripes, so you push them together. This will make two of the stripes converge like an arrowhead point. (IG sartoria_raffaniello) — Jerry Xu: Place the dart between two stripes, but make them converge into a single stripe, allowing you to match the pattern across the pockets. (IG jerrysuit163) — Tailor CAID: Do away with the front dart entirely. This results in straighter sides, which won't hug your waist, but you preserve the pattern completely. Also, a mark of classic American style. (IG tailorcaid) — Liverano & Liverano: Replace the front dart with a hidden underarm dart. This preserves the pattern for the area that people see and allows you to get some waist shaping. (IG liveranoandliverano) — Salve Studios: Next level. Move the pattern! This is clearly too laborious for most tailoring commissions, but nice to see this kind of craft. (IG salve.studios)

derek guy

63,107 Aufrufe • vor 8 Monaten