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The Ka-27 uses a complex coaxial rotor system to eliminate the need for a tail rotor. It has two three-bladed rotors mounted on the same axis. They rotate in opposite directions, so their torque reactions largely cancel. But both rotors still need collective and cyclic pitch control. That requires...

144,386 Aufrufe • vor 20 Tagen •via X (Twitter)

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Absolutely wild footage, this is a real world engine failure in a MD500 (Think Magnum P.I. helicopter) over Kauai, Hawaii out on a tour flight. You’ll probably have to watch this a few times but the video starts out with the helicopter under power and then the engine sound goes silent. The beeping you hear is the engine-out audio beep to inform the pilot that engine power has been lost. This maneuver that pilot is doing is called a Autorotation and the way to think about helicopter flight, the engine is turning this big fan (rotor blades) on top of the body and sucking in air from the top and projecting it downward to overcome the force of gravity. When engine power is lost, you experience a reverse in airflow because now gravity takes over and the air flow is coming from the bottom of the main rotor disk. The only thing the pilot can really do is to make sure the rotors keep spinning by changing the pitch of the rotor blades through the use of the “collective” which is a lever next to the pilot’s left leg and it only moves up and down. The pilot has to manipulate the collective during an auto rotation to make sure the blades keep spinning. If the pilot pulls up too much on the collective, the rotor blades will bite too much of air causing a resistance and slow the rotors down. If the pilot doesn’t pull enough collective.. the blades will speed up and potentially cause a catastrophic failure. The other control the pilot has is called the cyclic. This cyclic sits between the pilots legs and and manipulates individual pitch of the rotor blades to tilt the rotor disk aka “big fan” and make the helicopter go forward, backwards, left, right. So essentially in this type of emergency, you have to manipulate the controls in a delicate balance because no matter what, gravity is taking you to the ground because the engine is no longer producing power. The pilot did an outstanding job here given the geography and limited amount of flat terrain to put the helicopter on the ground. Thankfully it sounds like no souls were lost and only one injury according to a news report (see the link below)👇 Of course there is a lot more to helicopter aerodynamics but I’m trying my best to put this in simpler to digest terms. Big thanks to Combat Learjet for sharing and definitely worth a follow!

Thenewarea51

5,857,490 Aufrufe • vor 2 Jahren

How to Resurface Brake Rotors Like a Pro. Pure ASMR . ​Got a brake pedal that feels like a foot massage every time you slow down? It’s probably time to address those warped rotors. Instead of throwing them straight into the scrap bin, you can often give them a second life by turning them on a brake lathe. ​Here is the exact step-by-step process to get that perfectly smooth, true finish: ​Step 1: Mount the Rotor ​Place the brake rotor securely onto the lathe spindle. ​Slide on the correct-sized adapters to ensure the rotor centers perfectly on the shaft. ​Thread on the arbor nut and tighten it down to lock everything firmly in place. ​Step 2: Install the Silencer Band ​Don't skip this part unless you want your eardrums ringing. Wrap the rubber anti-chatter silencer band tightly around the outer edge of the rotor. ​Secure the spring hook. This dampens high-frequency vibrations and prevents high-pitched squealing while cutting. ​Step 3: Fire Up the Machine ​Flip the power switch to the ON position to get the rotor spinning. ​Take a quick second to make sure everything looks centered and isn't wobbling on the spindle. ​Step 4: Position Your Cutting Bits ​Use the handwheels to bring the twin cutting arms into position. ​Align the diamond-tipped cutting bits so they are just clearing both the inner and outer surfaces of the rotor. ​Step 5: Dial in the Depth of Cut ​Carefully adjust the micrometers on both sides to set your depth. ​For a standard scratch pass or light resurfacing, dial it in precisely to take off just enough material to clear the high spots and rust ridges. ​Step 6: Engage the Automatic Feed ​Turn up your speed control unit and engage the automatic feed mechanism. ​Sit back and let the machine work its magic as the cutting bits slowly move outward, cutting away imperfections and restoring a completely flat surface. ​Step 7: The Final Touch ​Once the automatic pass is complete, lightly run a piece of medium-grit sandpaper or a sanding block across the spinning rotor surfaces. ​This knocks down any microscopic ridges left by the bits and creates a clean, non-directional finish for optimal brake pad bedding. ​Step 8: Tear Down ​Shut the power off. ​Use your wrench to loosen the arbor nut, unhook the silencer band, and slide your perfectly resurfaced rotor off the machine.

Chuckling Charlie

91,374 Aufrufe • vor 2 Monaten

Replacing a Bad Wheel Bearing job done right. If you hear a roaring noise while driving or feel a massive amount of wobble in your wheel, you’re likely dealing with a shot wheel bearing. Leaving it unchecked isn't just annoying—it’s dangerous. Here is exactly how to tear it down, prep the surface, and install a fresh hub assembly correctly: 1. The Disassembly Remove the Wheel: Pop off the center hub cap, spin off the lug nuts with an impact wrench, and pull the wheel off the vehicle. Clear the Brakes: Unbolt the brake caliper bracket and lift the entire assembly away from the rotor. Pro-tip: Always hang the caliper securely so it doesn't strain the rubber brake line. Pull the Rotor: Remove the small retention screw holding the rotor to the hub. Give it a few taps with a rubber mallet to break the rust free, then slide the rotor off. Disconnect the Extras: To get clean access to the back of the hub, unbolt the lower control arm/suspension link. Carefully unbolt and pull the ABS wheel speed sensor out of the knuckle so you don't damage the wiring. Drop the Old Hub: Back out the bolts securing the wheel bearing assembly from behind the knuckle. A few solid strikes with a hammer will break the old, worn-out hub free. 2. The Critical Step: Prep Work Clean the Knuckle: A new part won't seat properly in a rusty home. Use a wire brush tool attached to a drill to aggressively clean out the corrosion and debris inside the knuckle, then blast it clean with brake cleaner. Be Nice to the Next Guy: Apply a generous coat of anti-seize lubricant to the inside of the knuckle and mounting surfaces. If you ever have to do this job again, you'll thank yourself. 3. Reassembly & Torque Specs Seat the New Hub: Align the brand-new wheel hub assembly and press it firmly into the clean knuckle. Torque It Down: Thread the wheel bearing bolts and suspension links back in. Never guess here—use a digital torque wrench to lock everything down to factory specifications. Plug in the Sensor: Reinstall the ABS sensor back into its slot and secure it. Reset the Brakes: Slide the rotor back over the studs, mount the caliper bracket back over the rotor, and torque the mounting bolts to spec (110\text{ NM} / ~ 81\text{ ft-lbs}). 4. Final Touch Mount the wheel back on, hand-start your lug nuts, and snug them down in a star pattern. Snap that center cap back on, and you are ready for a smooth, noise-free ride. Doing it right takes a little extra time, but proper cleaning and exact torque specs mean this repair will last.

Chuckling Charlie

30,261 Aufrufe • vor 3 Monaten